If you have been paying attention, you will know that the newest trend in watches, especially microbrands, is GMT. Every year we seem to have a new trend; smaller watches, Genta-inspired watches, mint-colored dial watches, etc. We also have a newer GMT movement that is responsible for a lot of these GMT watches, which is the Miyota 9075. The Marloe GMT utilizes this new movement, and that means, this is a 3 timezone travelers GMT, which many refer to as a TRUE GMT, as it has the jumping hour hand. The price starts at $765 (currently), you get a myriad of strap choices, a box sapphire, and a very cool textured dial, that is available in two colors, Night, which is what I have here, which is not black but apparently a dark midnight hue, and one dubbed Day, which is a nice shade of sky blue. This is a thin and sleek 42mm case, in what I consider a very attractive overall design.
- 42mm diameter x 10.95mm depth (excl. crystal)
20mm strap width
- 47mm Lug to lug
- Bespoke-designed dual-texture case
Sapphire box crystal with dual-sided AR coating
Multi-layer dial with applied indices
Jet stream hour & minute hands with luminous fill
Hairline seconds hand with luminous fill
Floating GMT hand with luminous fill
50 Meters / 5ATM water resistance
- Limited to 500 pieces
Price $765 at the time of publication
Now Marloe is not the first to release a watch with the Miyota 9075 movement, I believe that honor went to a Bulova, and I think the first microbrand with it might have been the Traska, but it is still a fairly new movement and though it was announced a year or two ago, the rollout has been slow with shortages, etc. But now we are seeing more watches with this movement, and many seem to be excited about this because it is a true GMT. What is true GMT? Well, the Rolex GMT Master of course. There are others obviously, but many point to that as a reference. The biggest difference is how the hour hand operates. On other automatic GMT movements, say like an ETA, you set your time like every other 3-hand watch, and then you can push the crown to the first position to set the arrow GMT hand. This allows one to track two time zones, and if it has a 24-hour bezel, you can track 3.
A true GMT, like this Marloe GMT, allows the user to set the main hands as your destination time, and then you can set the arrow hand as your home time, and then use a bezel like this 48-click bi-direction bezel on this Marloe, to track a third if you wish. Now, why does this make a big difference? Well, to some, it is a HUGE difference. Because of the jumping hour hand, you can let’s say fly from NY to Hawaii, (I kept this simple so I didn’t need to bring Siri and a calculator into this), and when you land, you can just pull the crown out and move that hour hand behind 5 hours of Eastern Time. It’s a quick set hour hand essentially and you can set the GMT hand then as well, or worry about it when you get to the hotel.
Is this a cool feature? Sure. But, that quick set hour hand takes away a feature that I and so many others are accustomed to, and that is the quick set date. See, the jumping hour hand goes in both directions, so there is no crown position or opposite direction to move the crown to advance the date. The easiest way to set the date (instead of advancing both hour and minute hand around dial 24 hours), is to just use the jumping hour to advance the date. It takes a little longer than just scrolling through the date wheel, but that is how this movement functions. If that is the case, I personally wouldn’t have minded if they did a date delete on this movement, at least until they figured out how to do a quick set date feature.