Vulcain has 3 variations using their Skindiver case: the standard Skindiver, a Chronograph version, and this one, the Vulcain Skindiver GMT. It takes the same 38.3mm case used for the diver, but adds a new dial, a GMT complication with date, by the way of a Soprod C125 automatic movement, and its available in a few different color ways, black with white, black with beige, and a white with beige, as well as two limited edition models, a purple dial, and this one, the blue dial, the only one to have a sunray dial instead of a matte low gloss dial. What’s interesting is that, because this started as a dive watch, it still retains a screw-down crown and 200m of water resistance, and of course, there’s a domed sapphire and a ceramic bezel insert. MSRP for this LE of 100 is $2,330.
Specifications
Limited Edition Blue Dial
38.3mm Stainless Steel Case
12.2mm Thick
44mm Lug to Lug
6.3mm Screw Down Crown
78 Grams
Domed Sapphire Crystal
Ceramic 24 Hour Bezel Insert
Soprod C125 Automatic GMT Movement
Blue Tropic Rubber Strap (As reviewed)
Swiss Made
MSRP $2,330 USD
https://vulcain.ch/products/skindiver-gmt-bleue
A little less than 2 years ago, I took a look at the Vulcain Skindiver and was blown away with the overall look, the case design and finishing, and that vertical brushed dial. This Vulcain Skindiver GMT retains that same case but loses a bit of that vintage aesthetic with this sunray dial, vibrant ceramic 24-hour bezel insert, coupled with white indices and numbers, instead of the beige. Some will, of course, like the modern approach here; others will yearn for the vintage appeal of the standard Skindiver.
Immediately, even though it’s on a sporty tropic rubber strap, I felt this Vulcain Skindiver GMT has more of a casual/dress watch look and feel, and would probably look right at home with a nice leather strap, and there are bracelet options, but more on that in a bit. The sunray dial is one of the big highlights here, and while a sunray dial isn’t really anything special in the watch world, it does differentiate this model from the others in the lineup.
All the other Skindiver GMTs use a matte dial, and from what I can tell from pics on their website, it has a fine eggshell texture. This blue limited edition uses a beautiful sunray dial that, of course, shimmers in the light, bouncing between a radiant and then a darker shade of blue. In contrast with the white indices, the polished steel hands, and the lighter blue GMT arrow, it really is a striking dial. The GMT text is in that lighter baby blue to match the GMT hand, and this version of the Skindiver does get a date wheel, which is nicely framed in a blasted and polished steel border.
Initially, there were some glitches on the Vulcain website concerning pricing, and I thought this model was priced much more than the other models, even more than the Purple LE. While the pricing seems to be rectified for the most part, I was trying to find justification for the higher price tag.
While the Purple and Blue are both Limited editions and $110 more than the standard versions, only this blue dial comes with a sunray patterned dial, and it also has a matching blue ceramic bidirectional bezel insert. The purple has a black bezel. Action is sufficient for a bi-directional bezel, never as fun as a dive bezel, but it does click nicely on each number and has a nice solid feel about it.
Same with that crown, a screw-down crown, along with that 200m of water resistance, for a dressier GMT watch. I know this is using the same case as the diver, but Vulcain could have easily gone with 100m of water resistance or a non-screw-down crown, as so many do. The crown operates both the standard and GMT arrow, and because of the Soprod C125 GMT movement, it’s pretty much the same as an ETA or Sellita GMT, a caller’s GMT if you will. You will set your time, and then push back to the first position, and you can adjust both your date and the GMT hand.
The case is very finely brushed, with a polished chamfer that runs the top of the case, and this is just beautiful finishing, very much in line with the price tag. The case has a cutout under the bezel as well, so the bezel actually sits into the case, not on top, allowing for a thinner case overall, which is nice considering how thick that domed sapphire is.
You can see the aforementioned Soprod C125 movement through the sapphire case back, unlike the black and white dial models, which have the same solid case back as the dive watch. Both the Purple and Blue Limited editions get the sapphire case back, showing off the movement, with a nicely decorated rotor and that blue enamel Vulcain logo.
The Vulcain Skindiver GMT comes on a 20mm blue vulcanized rubber Tropic-style rubber strap, but does not list a bracelet option. Apparently, early on, there was a BOR bracelet option, but that is no longer available. You can purchase the Acier bracelet for $400. Where it gets odd is that if you click on the other versions of the watches that do offer the Acier bracelet as an option, there are different prices. The Purple shows at $2,450 if you choose the bracelet, but the others at $2,671. Seems there is still a glitch going on with the website.
The blue tropic rubber is a really nice rubber strap, the color matches pretty well to the dial and bezel, and of course, has quick release pins like most straps do these days, and I had no problem fitting it to my 7 1/2 inch (19,05cm) wrist. And on that note, yes, 38.3mm does feel a little small for me; actually, it is small for me as I do prefer a watch 40mm or larger. I will admit, I do love how it looks and feels on my wrist, despite my wishing it were slightly larger.
And just because it’s a GMT, it doesn’t mean Vulcain forgot about the lume. Sadly, the bezel numbers are not lumed, and that is not needed, but it would have been a nice touch. The indices and hands do glow brightly and last about a good 4 hours.
I very much do have an affinity for these Skindiver models from Vulcain. I love the case design and finishing, and they seem to get everything right, down to the small details. I am not sure why a bracelet is not offered directly on the site as an option; hopefully that will be rectified soon, but this Vulcain Skindiver GMT is a really nice example of a vintage case style with a modern-style dial and bezel. It is about $500 more than the regular Skindiver, but it, of course, has a more expensive GMT movement, a blue sunray dial, and a sapphire case back, as well as being limited to 100 pieces. The only thing I would change? Make one in 40mm.
I've been an avid watch lover since the age of 7. Watches are not only my hobby but a passion. My favorite style used to be dive watches, but field or non bezel watches have been growing on me. When I'm not reviewing watches I am either cooking or with family and friends.
