Hanhart 417 ES
It is no secret that I am a big fan of Hanhart Watches and this Hanhart 417 ES is no different. Taking inspiration from the past, Hanhart has recreated the 417 ES, but this one is not the exact same as 1954, beyond just modern material upgrades and of course the movement. No, this one has been modernized to 42mm. Yes, the original case size was 39mm, but now you can get it in 42mm, for those that prefer something a little bit bigger. This one is the original model, not the flyback, and is housing a Sellita SW510 manual movement, and there is the standard bund strap, but more intriguing is the new stainless steel bracelet that really takes this piece up another notch in my opinion. The retail price on the strap only is around $2200 USD.
Specifications:
- Watch diameter (mm): 42.0
- Watch height (mm): 13.3
- Lug width (mm): 21
- Lug to lug (mm): 49.
- Weight on Bracelet (Grams): 175.5
- Water resistance: 100 meters
- Case metal: Stainless steel
- Dial Color: Black
- Front crystal: Sapphire
- Movement: Sellita SW510 M
- Manufacturer’s limited warranty: 2 years
Pricing: Strap $2,240 USD (Watchbuys)
Add $360 For the Bracelet
Hanhart Website
Watchbuys (USA DEALER)
This is the standard model Hahart 417 ES, or at least that’s how I refer to it. See there are a few variations of this model, and it can get a little confusing, especially considering the differences between them which are not as slight as I initially thought. Of course, you can get this info all from their website, but basically, you have the standard versions in 42mm and 39mm, but the 39mm, dubbed 1954, is slightly different as it has a higher anti-magnetic rating, and a nicer case back. That 39mm size, the one worn and loved by Steve Mcqueen is the newer version of the ES, and has more shock and anti-mag technology, so its definitely an amazing version of the 417, especially if you love a smaller or historically accurate sized piece. Also, available at higher price points are the Panda Flyback Chronograph versions, using a Flyback Column Wheel AMT movement.
39mm 417 Reverse Panda Flyback Chronograph
So there are few Hanart 417 ES models available and to be honest, I should have probably had them send the newer 39mm or one of the Flyback models, but this traditional layout of the original re-release of these models has always been the one to catch my eye the most. Panda and Reverse Panda dials look great, but I love the simplicity of this dial and the all-black matte dial with the light green numerals just really stands out to me, even to some it may be boring. There is a lot to talk about with this dial, from that awesome texture, to the printed markers, which let’s be honest, are rare on a watch of this price as most would expect applied. But, I think the printed markers keep it in line with the original model from the 50s. As does the pencil hands, instead of the cathedral hands Hanhart is known for, and of course that simple two-eye, bi-compax chronograph, which allows you to time up to 30 minutes and has a running seconds hand at the 9 o’clock sub-dial.
As I mentioned in the video, this model was the first pilot chronograph made for the German Armed Forces, and while I know nothing of what those pilots required, I just love the overall layout and design for this chronograph. It is so easy to read and has such a stark contrast I love that Hanhart went with the retro font here as well, first seen on this watch and a few limited editions and they are throwing around the idea of bringing it to the regular lineup. I am not sure which way I lean on that, I love the classic font, but not sure if I want to see it on every model. Anyway, this is a clean and easy-to-read dial, and yes, those hands are curved, which helps with that box-domed sapphire and reduces the parallax effect.
If you are wondering, what the ES in Hanhart 417 ES stand for, that would be Edelstahl, which translates to stainless steel. See in the 50s, not all watches were made of stainless steel, as the originals were made in two case materials, the other being chrome-plated brass. Yes, brass watches that are coated in chrome. A very different time. But these days, stainless steel is the norm, but I guess Hanhart wanted to just keep the original naming of the model.
One distinct feature of the 417, especially compared to other Hanhart models is the thin and svelte lugs. Hanhart makes a lot of models and a lot of chronograph, and at a glance, some would think this is just very similar to the MKII, but when you look closer, this is a much more classic and subdued piece compared to the chunky and blocky lugs of the MKII and others. While this isn’t exactly a thin watch, especially with that domed crystal, it is just a much sleeker piece, yet at 42mm, still has a commanding presence, especially combined with the bund strap and the new stainless bracelet.
Beating away under the very simple (maybe too simple) case back of the Hanhart 417 ES is the Sellita SW510 manual movement, a new movement to me, as I do not get a lot of manual watches for reviews these days, especially not manual chronographs. I have to say, I have always been such a staunch automatic movement guy, but I have really enjoyed using this movement, winding it every two days, and those satisfying clicks of the pushers to run the chronograph. It sounds like such a simple thing, and maybe I am the odd man out here but I am glad this is not an automatic. I feel it would have ruined the nostalgic and retro appeal of this watch, and I may be looking to add a 3 hand manual wind watch to my watch game in the near future.
But, as usual, not everything is amazing, and I do have a few gripes with the Hanhart 417 ES, and they all have to do with the bracelet and strap. They are minor issues, but ones I felt I should point out. This watch comes standard with the bund leather strap. It is a fine leather strap, though the leather itself is a little on the thin side and I have two issues. The first being it is not backed with leather or suede, but rather Alcantara, which is manufactured suede. This belongs in cars, not on watch straps in my opinion. The other is this uses standard pins, not quick-release pins. Now, I know. I am not the biggest fan of quick-release pins, especially on straps, but the bracelet does have them, and well, it’s just odd that you need a tool to take off the strap, but not one for the bracelet. The other would be, this does make the watch sit much higher on your wrist, and it for sure is a statement on the wrist.
Okay, but what about that new bracelet? With the exception of one minor gripe, this is a fantastic addition to the Hanhart lineup. A solid 3-link bracelet that somehow doesn’t look like every other 3-link out there, screws in the link, and a fantastic signed clasp all come together to make a fantastic accessory for the 417 ES. The bracelet is absolutely my preferred way of wearing this watch and I think this really takes it up a notch. The gripe? The quick-release pins work great, matter of fact it is so easy to put this bracelet on, you never even have to flip the watch over and of course, no tools are required. You do want to be careful though, those pins do slide out, and the end link is separate, so it does take some lining up and some patience to put it all back together. Once on though, it has proved to be a very strong attachment.
On my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, this is a great wearing and great looking piece, and as I said, the bracelet is the way to go for me, but I imagine a great two piece leather would look fanatasic as well, just rememver these are odd sized lugs at 21mm, so you may need to stick with Hanhart branded straps or go the custom route.
I know this model has been reviewed by many others already, but I was glad I chose this model instread of the 39mm or the Flyback versions. I love this classic subdued look, and beyond the 42mm size, it is very close to the look of the original Hanhart 417 ES. I pretty much love every Hanhart I review, which doesnt always mean they are perfect, but this watch is no different. I absolutley love it. The look, the size, the finishing, the new bracelet. This is just another fantastic piece from one of my favoroite German watch brands, a piece that can be worn by pilots, can be worn casually and dare I say, I think on the new bracelet this can pass as a great dress watch as well. For me, this is an absolute homerun. For even more info, hit up the Hanhart website directly.
