One of the reasons I love reviewing and writing about watches is not only the diversity of all the types of watches, but also when a brand branches out and produces a watch with a few things they have not done before. Today, that watch is the Victorinox Concept One, a 39mm stainless steel sports watch. The case may be similar, using the design of the Journey 1884, new Inox, and others, 39mm is not a size Victorinox has done often, and this new model has two distinct versions. The automatic that I am reviewing today, and there’s a solar version as well, and both are firsts for the iconic Swiss brand. The automatic is the first Victorinox to use a La Joux Perret movement, and the solar version is the first time they have used a solar movement, ever. This one has a vertical brushed center dial, 100m of water resistance, and comes on a very comfortable green rubber strap, and retails for $1,450.
Specifications
39mm Stainless Steel Case
21mm Lug Width
46mm Lug to Lug
12mm Thick
108 Grams
Sapphire Crystal Front and Back
Push Pull Crown
La Joux-Perret G100 Movement
100m Water Resistant
Rubber Strap as shown
Possibly Optional Bracelet
Price $1,450
The Victorinox Concept One is somewhat interesting, and I do like a lot about this watch, but I did question why they did not choose to just make a 39mm version of the Inox, seeing as new Inox models use this same case design. But then I started to look at those new Inox models, and started looking at this Concept One even more, and while at first glance many may think this is an Inox light, they are two different watches and serve a different purpose.
The Inox, at least in most of its iterations, is a very rugged and capable watch, one that can be used while hiking, rafting, or in the ocean, and also has extreme shock protection. The Concept One is more of an everyday watch; no crown guards, only 100m water resistant with a push-pull crown, a more artistic (yet still functional) dial design, and this watch just gives off a different vibe, even if at a glance the two watches may look similar.
The overall design, I would say, is a modern everyday type of watch; it’s not what I would call a field watch, and it’s definitely not a tough or extreme watch, yet it still does have a bulky and angled case. The case itself is basically the new Inox case, but sans crown guards, and Victorinox has really been getting their mileage out of this case with all their sport and dive watches the last few years, with the basic case design being introduced with the Journey 1884 model. The vertical brushed case sides, angled lugs, and the integrated lug piece, which gives the strap a more fitted and cohesive look, and the markings on the sides of the case, the steel type on the non-crown side, and the water resistance above the crown.
Speaking of the crown, one criticism I have is that this Victorinox Concept One does not have a screw-down crown. While I am glad that there is 100m of water resistance, I prefer a screw-down crown on my watches; it gives peace of mind that the crown doesn’t accidentally get snagged or pulled out, and while it may not impact water resistance as it’s more about gaskets and fit, in my mind, it’s just an extra layer of security.
The bezel has a similar look to the Inox, but the bezel is polished for the angled or hexagon look, rather than being carved into the bezel. It gives the bezel a faceted look, creating a contrast with the all-brushed case, and both the bezel and crown are highly polished. The bezel does have a scratch-resistant coating applied to it, presumably a clear DLC. ย I am guessing this was done to make the Victorinox Concept One less tool watch in appearance, and there’s the white arrow that points to the crown. I still have not figured out what VSA is doing with these arrows; there’s one below the date wheel as well.
But my favorite part of the Victorinox Concept One is the dial, specifically the dial on this automatic version as while the Solar model does share the same overall look and bowl-shaped dial, it has a more transparent dial to allow for solar charging. Here on this automatic model, the center dial is vertically brushed, and I love the way this looks. You can see in the various pictures in this review, and in viewing the video above, that depending on the light and angle, this olive green dial can look olive green, but then shine a light on it or turn it a little, and it is a much lighter shade, almost a yellowish/green look about it, and it creates a two-tone dial.
There are other colors available, but I really do love this green, and I also do love the dial shape here. Call it a bowl shape, a stadium dial, whatever you call it, it is somewhat unique and not a dial you see often. I love how the indices are inset into the bowl edge, and I like the brushed vertical center, which seems to be a separate piece on the dial, though I am not sure if it is, in fact, a two-piece dial. It’s a clean, simple, and easy-to-read dial, with the date located at 6 o’clock, and while the case design is shared with other VSA models, this Victorinox Concept One does not share the same blocky, square skeleton type hands as the other models, opting for more straightforward, thin sword hands.
Victorinox has many models in their lineup where you can choose either a quartz or automatic version, and it’s one of the things that sets a brand like VSA apart from other mainstream brands and micros as well. But this time around, Victorinox chose to go with a solar movement for the less expensive model. I did not get my hands on the solar model, but it does show it to have a 7-year rechargeable battery, and it will run you about $500 less than its automatic counterpart shown here.
This is another first for Victorinox, though, as this is the first time they have used a La Joux Perret movement, this one being the G100 with date. This is the second watch in a row I have reviewed with this movement, the Straum Jan Mayen having the dateless version, and like the Straum, you can see the 68-hour power reserve movement through the glass case back, though on this Concept One, it is obscured a bit by the use of the laser-etched Swiss Army Knife on the glass. These are solid movements, though, and I appreciate the longer power reserve.
39mm is another first for Victorinox, ar least in recent history. Im sure at some point in time, they made 39mm watches but unless we are talking womens watches, Victorinox, especially when it comes to the sport and dive watches have been producing at least 40mm watches, if not 41 and higher, and at one point were making 45mm Inox watches. So, for those that prefer a sub 40mm watch, made for a gentleman, (though I would argue this can definitely be a unisex watch as well), ย its here in the Concept One.
As Victorinox tends to do, there is a stainless bracelet version; the bracelet is relegated to the black dial (both automatic and solar). The rest of the colors are on rubber straps. Now these are very nice rubber straps, both in appearance and comfort, and have quick-release pins and a push button deploytant clasp, which goes on as a standard buckle would with a prong, but you get to set it once basically and put it on like a bracelet. No cutting to fit here, which is the way it should be, and while no microadjustments in the clasp, I find there are plenty of holes to get a good fit, at least with my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist. Note, I did have to wear it one hole up than I probably would normally, as the clasp and strap can slide around a bit otherwise, due to the weight of the watch head, but I never felt it was too tight on my wrist, and wearing it for a week, I really enjoyed how it wore and how it looked on my wrist. If you want to change out the strap, though, be aware that it’s only 21mm.
Yes, there is lume on the Victorinox Concept One, and I knew just by looking at the dial and the smaller indices that this was not going to be the best lume, and it’s not. It does light up nicely initially and the logo lumes as well, but don’t expect it to be glowing very brightly, if at all, 3 hours later.
There’s a lot to like with the Victorinox Concept One, and while I know Victorinox is a large company and has a long history, I am still in awe at how they can produce different variants of the same model, with different movements and different price points, to attract different types of buyers. The solar, I am sure, is a good option for those wanting a watch that is very care-free, no winding, no power reserve, and a 7-year lifespan on the battery/capacitor.
This La Joux Perret automatic version is targeting the watch enthusiasts, of course, and as always, VSA makes a well-finished and solid-feeling watch, but it’s not without its quirks, such as the push-pull crown, a 21mm lug width, and why can’t I have a choice of bracelet or strap on every color? The bracelet, which is available in their accessories section, sells for $285, which would put the automatic version over $1,700. I guess if you really love a bracelet, it may be worth it, but the need to start offering a choice of bracelets or straps for each model.
I do think it was smart of them to start offering 39mm men’s watches; the market is there for it, and that is a very popular size at this time. While I do prefer a slightly larger watch, I did find this watch to wear well on my wrist, and it is attractive, but again, quirky as usual.
I've been an avid watch lover since the age of 7. Watches are not only my hobby but a passion. My favorite style used to be dive watches, but field or non bezel watches have been growing on me. When I'm not reviewing watches I am either cooking or with family and friends.
