Swiss Military GMT
When it comes to inspiration or design, there is no doubt the Swiss Military GMT used Rolex as an example, more specifically the Sub C in my opinion. The case and crown guards are obviously similar, though the dial, hands and markers are completely different. In my view, the Swiss Military is more of an homage than most, as most homages are almost copies with a different name on the dial. Now, their are going to be many that disagree with me, and do not care for homages of any kind. And I get that. But if you are okay with it, read on.
Swiss Military GMT Specifications
- 42mm Stainless Steel Case
- 49mm lug to lug
- 20mm lug width
- 10.5mm thick
- 176 grams
- 200 meters Water Resistant
- Sapphire Crystal
- Ronda 515.24 Quartz Movement
- Screw Down Crown
Price: Around $600 USD
Available in the example I have for review with the black dial and black and blue (Batman) bezel, there are also a few other dial and bezel colors to be had, as well as PVD versions. Getting right into it, one of the reasons I chose the black dial, as opposed to a white or blue, is I feel it hides the globe that is stamped into the dial. As many might know, I am not very keen on logos or pictures on a dial, and while this does remind me of a WWF championship belt from the 80’s, at least it is part of the dial and nicely done as opposed to an etching or drawing.
Continuing with aspects of the dial, lets talk about black hour and minute hands on a black dial, keeping in mind that this Swiss Military GMT does not have a AR coating on the sapphire crystal. Bad choice. No Way around it. Silver outlined hands like the applied markers would have been better and would have at least provided some contrast. Unfortunately at times the hands get lost against the black dial and I found myself looking at the red GMT and second hand instead, as they stand out more. Speaking of the GMT hand, it is independently set, meaning when you unscrew the crown to set the date, turning the crown one way does just that, and the opposite direction will move the GMT hand around the dial, so you can line it up with the 24 hour aluminum insert bezel.
As is with many watches of this style, the Swiss Military GMT combines both satin brushed and high polish finishes, with the sides of the case being polished and the rest brushed. I did not try this model on a strap, but drilled lugs would have been a benefit, especially when a watch has solid end links such as this, just makes taking of the bracelet much easier. The screw down crown is solid with no play and has a red enamel cross logo that adds a touch of color to the case, without being gimmicky.
Let me get to some of my disappointments, the first being the bracelet, or more specifically the clasp and deployant. The bracelet is standard fare, your oyster style links with split pins. Okay, I can give a pass there. The use of a stamped deployant over a solid one though boggles my mind, especially at this price point. It gives the watch an inexpensive look and feel and I expected better. Some people will not care about this at all, and it does not lessen the functionality of the watch in any way.
My other let down is the lume. I will let the picture below do the talking.
The same case back that was used on the Swiss Military Tank I reviewed awhile back is in play here, not that their is anything wrong with this case back either, I am just pointing out that it is basically identical. Though I have seen many brands have similar case backs on different watch models, most do it as a cost cutting measure. The screw down case back does have a nice stamped logo and textured/blasted center finish.
Nothing surprising with how the Swiss Military GMT wears on the wrist, I can compare it a Steinhart, as in style, design and size they are very similar. I removed four links for my 7 1/2 inch wrist for a perfect fit. I will say that if you have smaller wrists, this would be a good choice as it comes in at 49mm lug to lug.
I can honestly say this is one that left me a little wanting, and not exactly what I expected. I knew going in the case was an homage to a Sub, and while I of course saw the globe on the dial, I thought I could overlook it. And for the for the most part, I can overlook the dial, but some of the other things I mentioned left me scratching my head. Swiss Military (Charmex SA) normally impresses me, and while I would not call this the worst watch by far, some of the components could have been a little better. In the end, as always, that is just one mans opinion, and while I am not in love with the Swiss Military GMT, you might be, and that is all that matters.
Thank you for reading.