June 30, 2009
I'm always a fan of the understated mechanical dress watch, and the recently announced Hamilton Jazzmaster Slim fits that category perfectly. Based on the high-grade ETA 2892 movement, it's available in 40 and 43mm sizes, in steel or gold case. Dials are black (shown right) or silver. It's an understated look, with just hours, minutes, and the date at six o'clock.
The 2892 is the next movement up from the ubiquitous 2824, and is considered to be a better design. It's the base for most of Omega's co-axial series, for example, and is held in very high regard by watch aficionados.
I think 40mm is a perfect size for this watch: large enough to read easily without partaking of the big watch craze. Even though I'm close to seven feet tall, I don't want a full-dress watch to occupy too much wrist space -- it's supposed to be understated, after all.
List price for these ranges from $745 to $795, and they seem to be available for a bit less than that. Given the 2892 beating inside it, I consider this to be an excellent value. We're in contact with Hamilton now to see if we can arrange a loaner for review.
A couple of more pictures and comments after the break.
June 29, 2009
If you're like me, you probably never thought of using the flip-dot technology that you see on roadside signs for a wristwatch. A company called Sequel AG did, though, and has miniaturized it and licensed the technology to Guess for a line of women's watches appearing this fall to be called G-Motion. If you hit the link, you'll see a Flash video of the watch in action; in this case the design is Swarovski crystals (red/white) which makes for a standout look.
In effect, the face of the watch becomes a bitmapped display -- either on or off -- and we're excited about the possibilities of what a watch designer could do with that. the G-Motion line appears to use it for eight-segment displays of time/date/seconds, but you could also draw graphics, text, or pretty much anything else.
Details are TBD, but we are slated to get some of the first units for review, so keep an eye on WR for that.
It'll be interesting to see how these are received by the fashionable -- it's a quartz watch, with a digital display, but the pixels are crystals and the maker is Guess. That should be interesting.
By Paul Hubbard
October 12, 2008
As a former pilot, there are two watches that represent the absolute finest gear for flying: the Omega X-33, and Breitling Aerospace. Both are quartz and analog/digital, and have very different looks. Today's post is about a very similar watch that has a much more reasonable price tag to the Aerospace, the Victorinox Swiss Army Classic XLS MT. I've not yet confirmed this, but I strongly suspect that it has the exact same movement as the Aerospace, the ETA 988.432, making it one heck of a deal. Specifications of the Victorinox are:
- Swiss made, Swiss quartz movement.
- Anti-reflective-coated sapphire crystal.
- Stainless steel case, PVD-coated 'gunmetal'.
- Luminous hands and hour markers.
- Crown guard.
- Countdown timer, alarm clock, stopwatch, dual time zone, multiple languages.
- Water resistant to 100m.
- 45mm by 12m, quite large.
List price is shown as $1,095USD, but I would expect a discount from that. Let's compare to the Breitling Aerospace:
September 18, 2008
The Bell & Ross company (Yep, that's an ampersand. The joke is that Bell & Ross got theirs from Vacheron Constantin, who used to be Vacheron & Constantin.) has been a recurring subject here on Watch Report. We like many of their watches, particularly the aircraft-styled Instrument collection and their new line of dive watches. Today we've got some new models from B&R, so let's take a look and see what's changed.
First up is the BR01 Instrument Pro Titanium. Like their predecessor Instrument models, it has the square case, bold dial and aircraft-gauge style paired with a reliable ETA mechanical movement. This new model is now made of lightweight titanium, and they've also changed the style of the hour and minute hands to a beveled/polished look that I quite like. It's very similar to the style of the hands on the Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001, another watch slated for review here. The BR01 has a chronograph, using the ETA 2892 base coupled with a Dubois-Dupraz chronograph module. Specs are 46mm, grade-2 titanium with a satin finish. The dial is grey with white Superluminova coating on hands and hour markers. The crystal is sapphire with an anti-reflective coating, and the strap is rubber.
May 4, 2008
In January, we told you about the Nike Amp+ iPod watch which doubles as a remote control for your iPod Nano. Recently, Nike introduced the Nike+ SportBand which seems to be a variation on the theme with a slightly different focus.
The SportBand answers the question "What if I don't want to run with music?" This isn't as theoretical as you might think since many races ban music players. With the Nike+ SportBand, you can see all the same information that the Nike Amp+ iPod displayed on the screen of your Nano (pace, distance, calories burned, etc.), but on an LCD integrated into the SportBand itself rather than on the screen of your iPod.
Like the Nike Amp+, you can still upload your running data when you get home, so it's just as well integrated into the whole Nike/Apple ecosystem. All you do is pop the Nike+ Link out of the SportBand, and plug it directly into your computer's USB port.
Nike has also introduced a web-based coaching system called Nike+ Coach with professionally crafted programs for a range of fitness goals. Everything from "Walk to run" to "Marathon" is laid out with motivational tools, progress tracking, peer challenges, and more. This might sound trivial, but I'm here to tell you that workout buddies — even virtual ones — are a major factor in keeping up an exercise program. Of course, you probably have to have the hardware to make much use of the virtual coach, but the cost of entry is really pretty minimal. The Nike+ SportBand sells for a very reasonable $59.
By Paul Hubbard
April 9, 2008
We've never covered a Wenger watch before, but with the introduction of the AeroGraph Countdown Chrono at Basel this year, with it's interesting combination of style and functionality, we figured it was finally time.
At first glance, the Aerograph Countdown Chronograph seems like a pretty standard watch: quartz movement, stainless steel case, 3-dial chronograph, and a date visible at the 4 o'clock position. However, take a closer look at the bezel, and you'll see that the numbers count down instead of up! We've only seen this on a very unusual Seiko dive watch, the Kobold Phantom, and the Sinn 103 UTC.
Most bezels count up. In other words, you rotate the bezel until the 0 is aligned with the minute hand, and as the minute hand moves, it counts up to a maximum of 59 minutes. With a countdown bezel, on the other hand, you rotate the bezel to a start time, and then when the minute hand hits zero, time is up. Simple, useful, quick, and honestly, probably more useful than a traditional bezel since you don't have to remember the target time once the bezel is set.
Wenger is marketing the AeroGraph Countdown Chrono to pilots, but it's equally handy for (light) diving, cooking, parking meters, or simply "call me back in 25 minutes".
Here are the specifications:
- 316L stainless steel case.
- Quartz movement.
- Three-dial (60sec/30min/12hr) analog chronograph.
- Date at the 4 o'clock position.
- Waterproof to 100m (330ft).
- Four versions:
- Brown dial with a leather strap.
- Black dial with a bracelet.
- Black dial with a leather strap.
- PVD-coated black with a black and orange strap.
- "'Scratch-proof" crystal (almost certainly mineral glass).
- Unusual count-down bezel (our favorite feature).
- SuperLuminova-coated markers and hands (should be very readable at night).
- List price of 450 - 530 Swiss francs (about the same in dollars right now).
For a change, I actually really like the brown-dial version, but I suspect the PVD-black version (which we couldn't find a picture of) would be gorgeous. The price isn't bad, either. We promise to keep more of an eye on Wenger in the future.
By Paul Hubbard
April 7, 2008
Breitling's newest watch to come out of Basel this year is the Avenger Seawolf Chronograph. Combining the versatility and reliability of the Avenger line with the water resistance of the Seawolf, Breitling seems to be getting as serious about diving as they are about aviation.
Breitling is touting the new Avenger Seawolf as the worlds only chronograph to be water tight and operational at depths up to 1,000 meters (3300 feet). This is impressive, but not entirely true. The Sinn U1000 also has the ability to remain operational at the same depths as the Breitling, but that just means they are in good company.
Breitling has developed new proprietary technology that makes their calibre 73 SuperQuartz operational at extreme depths. By using magnetically activated pushers, the pushpieces can be activated through the case with no direct contact with the module inside, keeping the watch perfectly sealed. The SuperQuartz movement is also thermo compensated which means it can account for the changes in temperature that make most quartz modules lose or gain time. The result is that the Avenger Seawolf is some ten times more accurate then a standard quartz movement.
In addition to the standard chronograph feature, the Breitling Avenger Seawolf has a "regatta timer" that will measure in ten minute scales for the beginning of a yacht race. The case is brushed stainless steel, and incorporates a helium release valve for extreme saturation diving, and a sapphire crystal.
Being a diehard Breitling fan, I really think they have a winner on their hands as this piece is gorgeous, functional, understated, and impenetrable.
By James Stacey
April 4, 2008
There aren't a lot of people who need a watch that can survive the airless void of space, but Richard Garriott happens to be one of them. He's headed for the International Space Station and some extra-vehicular activity (spacewalking). Garriott could have just chosen to wear the vacuum-rated Omega Speedmaster, or maybe a Fortis Cosmonaut, but instead he turned to one of my favorite watchmakers: Seiko.
Seiko has a long tradition of creating limited-edition watches for explorers in extreme environments. They've made some extraordinary watches, and routinely use the lessons learned in later production models. For example, they made Landmasters for trips to both poles (the GMT hand goes counter-clockwise for the Landmaster South Pole!), an amazing shrouded diver for commercial divers, a ceramic and titanium masterpiece for Mt. Everest, and even a watch specifically designed for hikers of Japan's mountains. As most of these are limited editions, they are tragically hard to find, and rarely even seen.
For Garriott, Seiko has designed a true masterpiece introduced this year at BaselWorld: the Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk. Have a look at these features:
- Spring Drive 5R86 movement for accuracy under the extreme temperature swings of space (-20° to +70° Celsius, or about -4° to 160° Fahrenheit).
- Titanium case with the sides etched out by a new CNC (computer numerical control) machine that Seiko built in order to help get the weight down to only 92.5 grams.
- Completely air-tight case capable of surviving direct exposure to space.
- Oversized buttons for use while wearing space gloves.
- Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
- Waterproof to 100m, or 330ft (in case of a water landing, I guess).
- 12-hour chronograph.
- GMT hand for 24-hour UTC time (which is used in both space and aviation).
- New luminescent material that Seiko says is three times as bright as a typical luminescent watch.
- A special dial and hand design for maximum readability.
- 53mm by 15.2mm which is huge.
- Limited edition of just 100 watches (price not yet announced).
They made some interesting design decisions on this one, and I'm smitten by the results. The dial is ultra-readable, with unobtrusive chrono hands, a subtle but still readable "there if you need it" blue skeletonized GMT hand, and bold white hour and minute hands reminiscent of the 6S37 Flightmaster. The power reserve subdial is subdued, and the date window is symmetric with the 9 o'clock marker. Blue makes a low-key accent, carefully placed to be non intrusive. The sculpted case and top-mounted buttons and crown (referred to as a "bullhead" design) make for a stunning and unique timepiece.
The Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk is to space what the new Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA is to the ocean. Even at 53mm, I'd happily wear it. It's gorgeous, functional, and built like a titanium tank. Let's hope Seiko introduces a production model soon.
Update (June 15): Richard Garriott gives us an update on how the Seiko Spacewalk is performing so far during training.
April 3, 2008
At BaselWorld 2008 this year, Rolex announced an update to their already amazing, top-of-the-line diver: The Rolex Sea-Dweller. They're calling the new model the Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. The DEEPSEA has several changes from the original Sea-Dweller:
- As with the new Yacht-Master 2, it's more heavily branded. The previous Sea-Dweller was notable for its restraint; this one adds the "ROLEX" repeated around the chapter ring, additional blurbs on top of the "ringlock", and "DEEPSEA" above the center. At least there's still no cyclops (date magnifier), and thankfully, they did not add polished center links like the new GMT Master 2.
- As with the Anniversary Submariner and new GMT Master 2, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA gets the new "maxi-dial" which means that the hour markers are larger, and both the the minute hand and the hour hands are slightly wider.
- The depth rating increases from silly to ludicrous: 1,220m (4,000ft) on the original to 3,900m (12,800ft) on the DEEPSEA.
- The crystal goes from flat thick sapphire to domed thick sapphire.
- New super-hard ceramic bezel with platinum-filled numbers. We first saw this design on the new GMT Master 2.
- Much-improved ratcheting clasp that increases in 1.8mm increments.
- The caseback goes from flat stainless steel to a titanium/steel alloy.
- The new "Ringlock System", which is a stainless steel ring under the crystal that absorbs some of the pressure.
- New blue-colored lume on the dial and bezel dot — very cool!.
- Larger case with slightly updating styling.
As before, it has a helium escape valve, which only matters if you do saturation diving. The movement is the same 3135, but with the addition of the new antimagnetic Parachrom Blue hairspring which we've discussed before on the Rolex Milgauss.
Price was not announced, but expect it to be steep. The Sea-Dweller has always been one of their more expensive models, and these updates certainly won't make it any cheaper. (We'll update this article when pricing is available.)
I was honestly a bit surprised to see this update. Rolex is usually slow to revise or introduce new models, and they've done several in the past year or two: The Anniversary Submariner, The Rolex Milgauss, The new Yacht-Master 2, the new GMT Master 2, the Cellini, and now the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. While I don't always like the results, I'm delighted to see Rolex increasing the pace and updating their classic styles. Bravo!
By Paul Hubbard
March 6, 2008
Casio seems to be gradually bringing the G-Shock and Pathfinder lines closer together. The first Casio Riseman was introduced back in 1997, but has been discontinued for some time. About three years ago, Casio introduced the G-Shock GW-400J which borrows from the Pathfinder line by integrating a thermometer. More recently, Casio announced the Ultimate Pathfinder (PAW1500) which, like the G-Shock line, is now water resistant to 200 meters (650 feet) rather than the previous 100 meters. And now Casio is reviving the Riseman line with the very strong Casio Riseman GW-9200.
Features include:
- New multi-band atomic timekeeping. Most of Casio's atomic watches are multi-band now, meaning they calibrate with atomic clocks in Mainflingen (Germany), Rugby (England), Fort Collins (Colorado), Fukushima (Japan), and Fukuoka (also Japan). But the Riseman GW-9200 goes a step further by also calibrating with the 77.5 kHz atomic signal in China, making it the first 6-band atomic watch I've ever seen.
- Solar powered.
- Water-resistant to 200 meters, or about 650 feet.
- Barometer pressure indicator and differential pointer (graph) with a range of 260 to 1,100 hectoPascals (millibars).
- Altimeter with a range of -700 to 10,000 meters, altitude data storage, and altitude differential pointer (ascent/descent graph).
- Thermometer with a range of -10°C to 60°C.
- Stopwatch with a resolution of 1/100th of a second, and a maximum capacity of 24 hours.
- World time with support for 33 cities.
- Countdown timer with a maximum of 24 hours (a nice improvement over the Pathfinders).
- 5 daily alarms and one snooze alarm.
- Time transfer function which allows you to swap the primary time zone with a secondary time zone (simplifying frequent travel between two zones).
- Electroluminescent backlight with automatic illumination feature (the ability to automatically illuminate the LCD by tilting the watch toward you).
- Dimensions: 51mm x 48.8mm x 15.9mm, and 60.9g.
All that is keeping the new Riseman from being a true triple sensor Pathfinder is the digital compass which, unfortunately, is one of my favorite features of the Pathfinder line. However, the GW-9200 is clearly one of the most sophisticated digital watches on the planet. It looks fantastic, and has some additional small improvements like the ability to view the date and day of week simultaneously. I just hope that, unlike the GW-400J, we will be able to toggle between metric and imperial units for things like temperature and barometric pressure, however I'm guessing not, and I'm guessing it will not be released in the US (though I will be very happy to be proven wrong).
The Casio G-Shock Riseman GW-9200 will be available on June 28th, 2008 and will retail for ¥27,000 which, as of today, is about $260.