WatchReport.com https://www.watchreport.com/ The Home of Real. Honest. Reviews. | Authentic Watch Reviews on WatchReport.com. Mon, 18 Mar 2024 18:04:02 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.watchreport.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/cropped-z_4bm51k-32x32.jpeg WatchReport.com https://www.watchreport.com/ 32 32 Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Diver Watch Review https://www.watchreport.com/epos-3504-titanium-pvd-diver-watch-review/ https://www.watchreport.com/epos-3504-titanium-pvd-diver-watch-review/#respond Mon, 18 Mar 2024 15:00:44 +0000 https://www.watchreport.com/?p=37659 Epos 3504 Titanium PVD The Epos 3504 Titanium PVD (official name- Epos 3504 Diver COSC LE) is the latest 500m diver from the Swiss watch brand. Late last year Epos introduced an all-new titanium collection of the Epos 3504, with an all-titanium case, a few different dial colors, and a choice of a bracelet, a nato strap, or a fitted rubber. All of the titanium watches come with a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, but this limited edition gets an upgrade to COSC. This black beauty also gets draped in black PVD all over, a special wood presentation box, and along with the bracelet, a black and white nato strap with PVD hardware. The price is $2,722 and includes customs fees and taxes, if you are in North America you’ll have to order directly from Epos, so it’s nice they take care of those extra costs. Specifications 41.5mm Titanium PVD Case 13.3mm Thick 22mm Lug Width 50mm Lug to Lug 132 Grams in Weight Sapphire Crystal Ceramic Bezel Insert 500m Water Resistant Helium Release Valve COSC SW200-1 Movement Made in Switzerland Price $2722  https://epos.ch/en/product/3504-138-85-35-95/ This all-new titanium 3504 is pretty much just another variation of the 3504 diver series, but that’s not a bad thing as this lineup watch does have a lot to offer in terms of looks, size (41.5mm), and beautiful finishing all over. The titanium models get a new dial, and of course, are going to be much lighter in weight than their steel counterparts. This all-black PVD limited edition gets an inky black dial, almost an enamel dial which is very striking, the Arabic numerals and the movement is now COSC, but it is still the SW200 movement. The dial of the Epos 3504 Titanium PVD is a very inky black lacquered dial, which has a mirror-like reflection to it, and it really works here with that glossy ceramic bezel insert and the white numbers for a beautiful contrast. The Arabic numerals give this edition a sportier look over the slim indices from the steel model, and the date magnifyer cyclops is still here as well (unfortunately). The bezel is still a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a fantastic feel to it, very crisp, and very firm yet still easy to rotate and put into place. Epos also retained that giant crown, and when I say giant, we are talking 8mm, and though that may not seem large compared to some watches on the market, when compared to the watch that it takes heavy inspiration from, it is, in fact, one giant crown. Of course, it is a screw-down crown, with quite a thick crown stem and it all screws in smoothly to help keep that water resistance of 500m. I was hoping for a new case finish, but the Epos 3504 titanium PVD has the same finish as the steel model-satin brushed finishing on top and polished case sides. This follows into the bracelet with polished center links and sides and brushed outer links. Now there is nothing really wrong with this finishing and it is seen on many watches but I wish they had done more of a rugged finish on this piece, and all brushed or blasted finish would have looked fantastic in my opinion. And if you are in the 0.1% of the population that does saturation diving for a living, well you have that helium release valve to help you ascend to the top at the end of your decompression. Well, the valve won’t actually help you physically, but it will keep your watch from blowing its crystal as the gases are slowly released. Something I do need to point out is that Epos has listed this Epos 3504 Titanium PVD, as well as PVD. At this price point, we would expect a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating, hell at $1000 you would expect it as well. Things can be confusing though and some brands just call it a PVD even if it has a DLC treatment, as it is still applied via the PVD process. I can’t imagine, with DLC still being touted as the best coating that can be applied to a watch, that at nearly $3,000, Epos went with a standard PVD. All that said, when going over the whole watch I found the coating to be even and perfectly applied all over, including in between all the bracelet links and even on the case back and quick-release bracelet pins. On my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, this Epos 3504 Titanium PVD diver not only looks great but feels great as well. I loved the look of the steel version, and the size of 41.5mm along with that big crown allows this watch to have presence without it being overbearing and yet I doubt anyone would call this watch small, especially if they were able to see it in person and try it on. The bracelet uses pretty large screws to hold the links together, and there are half links here and the clasp does have more of an old-school flip-out dive extension. I said the steel version felt like a chunk on the wrist (though well balanced) at 203 grams, but at 132 grams, 70 grams less in weight, this titanium watch will be light on the wrist without feeling too light. I know that sounds like an oxymoron, but this doesn’t have that light-as-a-feather feel to it, it still feels like a solid timepiece.  Of course, Epos does a pretty good job with the lume and this 3504 Titanium PVD doesn’t disappoint and uses a pretty good amount of BGW9 SuperlumiNova on the hands and applied Arabic numerals and as you can see, looks pretty good in the dark. Expect it to last for about 5 hours before completely fading out. I have reviewed quite a few Epos watches over the past few years now and one thing I can say is they make on beautiful timepiece. This Epos 3504 Titanium PVD diver is no different. The finish is superb, as is the dial work and overall this is a striking, well-made piece. The price is quite high though at $2700, which is $1000 more than that standard titanium diver. The only differences between the two are the COSC movement and of course the black PVD coating. That and only 300 pieces are being made. I feel the standard titanium divers are worth the the asking price (especially that fitted rubber strap model at around $1400) but is a COSC movement and an all-black titanium watch worth the extra cost? With only 300 being produced, does that help to overlook the extra cost, or do you just prefer a. COSC movement, that is worth the extra $1000? For me, I would probably go with standard titanium, but limited editions and COSC have never really been that big of a draw for me.

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Epos 3504 Titanium PVD
Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

The Epos 3504 Titanium PVD (official name- Epos 3504 Diver COSC LE) is the latest 500m diver from the Swiss watch brand. Late last year Epos introduced an all-new titanium collection of the Epos 3504, with an all-titanium case, a few different dial colors, and a choice of a bracelet, a nato strap, or a fitted rubber. All of the titanium watches come with a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, but this limited edition gets an upgrade to COSC. This black beauty also gets draped in black PVD all over, a special wood presentation box, and along with the bracelet, a black and white nato strap with PVD hardware. The price is $2,722 and includes customs fees and taxes, if you are in North America you’ll have to order directly from Epos, so it’s nice they take care of those extra costs.

Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

Specifications

  • 41.5mm Titanium PVD Case
  • 13.3mm Thick
  • 22mm Lug Width
  • 50mm Lug to Lug
  • 132 Grams in Weight
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Ceramic Bezel Insert
  • 500m Water Resistant
  • Helium Release Valve
  • COSC SW200-1 Movement
  • Made in Switzerland

Price $2722 

https://epos.ch/en/product/3504-138-85-35-95/

This all-new titanium 3504 is pretty much just another variation of the 3504 diver series, but that’s not a bad thing as this lineup watch does have a lot to offer in terms of looks, size (41.5mm), and beautiful finishing all over. The titanium models get a new dial, and of course, are going to be much lighter in weight than their steel counterparts. This all-black PVD limited edition gets an inky black dial, almost an enamel dial which is very striking, the Arabic numerals and the movement is now COSC, but it is still the SW200 movement.

Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

The dial of the Epos 3504 Titanium PVD is a very inky black lacquered dial, which has a mirror-like reflection to it, and it really works here with that glossy ceramic bezel insert and the white numbers for a beautiful contrast. The Arabic numerals give this edition a sportier look over the slim indices from the steel model, and the date magnifyer cyclops is still here as well (unfortunately).
The bezel is still a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a fantastic feel to it, very crisp, and very firm yet still easy to rotate and put into place. Epos also retained that giant crown, and when I say giant, we are talking 8mm, and though that may not seem large compared to some watches on the market, when compared to the watch that it takes heavy inspiration from, it is, in fact, one giant crown. Of course, it is a screw-down crown, with quite a thick crown stem and it all screws in smoothly to help keep that water resistance of 500m.

Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

I was hoping for a new case finish, but the Epos 3504 titanium PVD has the same finish as the steel model-satin brushed finishing on top and polished case sides. This follows into the bracelet with polished center links and sides and brushed outer links. Now there is nothing really wrong with this finishing and it is seen on many watches but I wish they had done more of a rugged finish on this piece, and all brushed or blasted finish would have looked fantastic in my opinion. And if you are in the 0.1% of the population that does saturation diving for a living, well you have that helium release valve to help you ascend to the top at the end of your decompression. Well, the valve won’t actually help you physically, but it will keep your watch from blowing its crystal as the gases are slowly released.

Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

Something I do need to point out is that Epos has listed this Epos 3504 Titanium PVD, as well as PVD. At this price point, we would expect a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating, hell at $1000 you would expect it as well. Things can be confusing though and some brands just call it a PVD even if it has a DLC treatment, as it is still applied via the PVD process. I can’t imagine, with DLC still being touted as the best coating that can be applied to a watch, that at nearly $3,000, Epos went with a standard PVD. All that said, when going over the whole watch I found the coating to be even and perfectly applied all over, including in between all the bracelet links and even on the case back and quick-release bracelet pins.

On my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, this Epos 3504 Titanium PVD diver not only looks great but feels great as well. I loved the look of the steel version, and the size of 41.5mm along with that big crown allows this watch to have presence without it being overbearing and yet I doubt anyone would call this watch small, especially if they were able to see it in person and try it on.

The bracelet uses pretty large screws to hold the links together, and there are half links here and the clasp does have more of an old-school flip-out dive extension. I said the steel version felt like a chunk on the wrist (though well balanced) at 203 grams, but at 132 grams, 70 grams less in weight, this titanium watch will be light on the wrist without feeling too light. I know that sounds like an oxymoron, but this doesn’t have that light-as-a-feather feel to it, it still feels like a solid timepiece. Epos 3504 Titanium PVD
Of course, Epos does a pretty good job with the lume and this 3504 Titanium PVD doesn’t disappoint and uses a pretty good amount of BGW9 SuperlumiNova on the hands and applied Arabic numerals and as you can see, looks pretty good in the dark. Expect it to last for about 5 hours before completely fading out.

Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

I have reviewed quite a few Epos watches over the past few years now and one thing I can say is they make on beautiful timepiece. This Epos 3504 Titanium PVD diver is no different. The finish is superb, as is the dial work and overall this is a striking, well-made piece. The price is quite high though at $2700, which is $1000 more than that standard titanium diver.
The only differences between the two are the COSC movement and of course the black PVD coating. That and only 300 pieces are being made. I feel the standard titanium divers are worth the the asking price (especially that fitted rubber strap model at around $1400) but is a COSC movement and an all-black titanium watch worth the extra cost? With only 300 being produced, does that help to overlook the extra cost, or do you just prefer a. COSC movement, that is worth the extra $1000? For me, I would probably go with standard titanium, but limited editions and COSC have never really been that big of a draw for me.
Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD Epos 3504 Titanium PVD

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Traska Freediver V5 Watch Review https://www.watchreport.com/traska-freediver-v5-watch-review/ https://www.watchreport.com/traska-freediver-v5-watch-review/#comments Sat, 09 Mar 2024 15:00:25 +0000 https://www.watchreport.com/?p=37629 Traska Freediver V5 It has taken five years to get the Traska Freediver in for review, and we are now on version 5 or V5 as I will refer to it in this review. After five years, a lot of hype, and a lot of refinement in the watch itself, I have to say this vintage-inspired, dress-diver is a beautiful watch, and I can see why the brand gets the praise it does. This latest iteration comes in four colors, white as shown here, carbon black, mint, and sun-bleached orange (salmon). It is also a spec monster as it has a Miyota 9039 (no date) or 9019 movement, a ceramic bezel insert, a fantastic bracelet with a tool-less micro-adjust clasp, a hard coating all over, and a very clean and stark dial. Pricing for this one is $660. Specifications 40.5MM Stainless Steel Case 48mm Lug to Lug 20mm Lug Width 10.5mm Thick 154 Grams in Weight Box Sapphire Crystal Ceramic Bezel Insert 120 Click Unidirectional Bezel 200 Meters Water Resistant Miyota 9039 Movement (as shown) 20MM bracelet tapering to 16mm Tool-less Adjustment Clasp 1200HV hard coating Price $660 https://www.traskawatch.com/products/freediver-arctic-white The Traska Freediver debuted in 2018 as their introductory piece, and through the years it has had quite a few changes. Jon, the owner of Traska tells me that he always wanted to create a stylish dive watch, a dress diver of sorts, but more a combination of a casual and dress dive watch, one that doesn’t look too much tuxedo but also not garish and toolish. Some of the changes over the years have been the hands, the bezel style and insert material, the movement, and the overall thickness and dimensions of the case. This V5 variant is said to be the last, (probably), as it has brought all of the elements together in one perfect package- A sleek masculine dive watch that can truly be dressed up or dressed down and not look out of place.  One of the biggest changes through the years to this Traska Freediver has been the case. Originally, this piece was much beefier, with a brush, slab-sided case, more reminiscent of a Tudor Pelagos, and it shrunk a little with the movement change, from an NH35 to Miyota 9000 series, but then it shrunk again come V5, and also got a new profile and case finish. Now it is not only sleeker and more round, but those case sides are all highly polished. And while high polished cases are not my favorite, the 1200 Vickers hard coating will keep it looking new a little longer. The top of the case is brushed, as is the case back and the majority of the bracelet, but the crown, bezel, and bracelet edges do have that high polish as well. The crown is signed with the Traska logo, and that logo is not just printed on the crown, but it’s like it is stamped in, and it stands out, beautifully. Another great feature of the case is drilled lugs. The bracelet doesn’t have quick-release pins either, but more on the bracelet later. While the mint-colored dial is probably the most popular, and Traska may have been a pioneer of that dial color in the microbrand space, I just couldn’t help to be attracted to the white dial. It’s a beautiful matte dial with just a very light sheen to it. I know, if it has a sheen, is it really matte? So maybe I am contradicting myself, but either way, it’s a beautiful white, and the contrasting black hour and minute hand, along with a red second hand are a great touch, and just enough pop of color. The newer maxi indices are diamond cut and glimmer in the sunlight especially- aided by the box-style sapphire crystal this is just a clean, uncluttered dial, and being the no-date variant, it is very symmetrical. Don’t worry though, the date version doesn’t mess up that symmetry too much as the date cutout is at the 6 o’clock position and replaces an index. That bezel insert is ceramic, a change from the sapphire version (and a stainless steel option) from the first and second variations of the Traska Freediver, and the bezel itself has been improved to be easier to grip, and have more crisp and precise action, and while I haven’t held or turned the bezels on the previous versions, I will say it is very nice to use this 120 click bezel. There is a slight issue though, and after a few bezels that have had this type of feeling, I have concluded that it has to be a certain type of bezel assembly. The issue is a slight wobble, which is hard to explain here, so make sure to check out the video. The bracelet is a big standout of this Traska Freediver as well. I don’t know how the bracelets were on previous versions, but this is a great bracelet. Fully articulated, with links that can fold up on themselves, female end links, and a great smooth finish. To top of off, or close it up, however you want to phrase it, all of the Traska watches now have the slim tool-free micro adjustment clasps, similar to a few other microbrands, with a push button mechanism on the inside, and a little bit of link slides in and out of the clasp. Also included is a half link on both sides of the clasp, to dial in that perfect fit on the wrist. On the wrist, this is a great watch. As I have talked about many times over the years, I used to wear much bigger watches. These days, I prefer something easily wearable, but I don’t want anything that looks dainty on my wrist. The dimensions of this watch are great, and I don’t want to say the word perfect, but the 40.5mm case with the 48mm lug to lug, combined with a flat case back and that bracelet, this is an easy-to-wear and comfortable watch, that happens to look great as well. Lastly, we have the lume, and it’s applied well and looks great in the dark, but this is not going to be your all-night glow dive watch. The indices are large but they are not slathered with lume, and neither are the hands. That said, this is supposed to be a perfect blend of beauty and function, and massive indices or Lum-tec-looking plots really wouldn’t work on this style of watch, with that said, I think the lume is more than sufficient, especially for this style of watch. I don’t know if this Traska Freediver was worth waiting 5 years to finally get my hands on one, but in a way, maybe it was. This is supposed to be the final version, the perfect blend of casual and dress in a dive watch, and Jon’s vision is finally realized. Traska is a popular brand, especially on social media like Instagram and Facebook watch groups, and I have seen a lot of hype over the years, and I have to say, I am impressed with this piece. Pricing has continued to go up over the years and with this model nearing that $700 mark, that means there is some stiff competition but I will say what won me over was the comfort. A lot of watches look good, and many are well made, but not all of them achieve that comfort on the wrist, and for that, the Traska Freediver stands out.

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Traska Freediver V5

It has taken five years to get the Traska Freediver in for review, and we are now on version 5 or V5 as I will refer to it in this review. After five years, a lot of hype, and a lot of refinement in the watch itself, I have to say this vintage-inspired, dress-diver is a beautiful watch, and I can see why the brand gets the praise it does. This latest iteration comes in four colors, white as shown here, carbon black, mint, and sun-bleached orange (salmon). It is also a spec monster as it has a Miyota 9039 (no date) or 9019 movement, a ceramic bezel insert, a fantastic bracelet with a tool-less micro-adjust clasp, a hard coating all over, and a very clean and stark dial. Pricing for this one is $660.

Specifications

  • 40.5MM Stainless Steel Case
  • 48mm Lug to Lug
  • 20mm Lug Width
  • 10.5mm Thick
  • 154 Grams in Weight
  • Box Sapphire Crystal
  • Ceramic Bezel Insert
  • 120 Click Unidirectional Bezel
  • 200 Meters Water Resistant
  • Miyota 9039 Movement (as shown)
  • 20MM bracelet tapering to 16mm
  • Tool-less Adjustment Clasp
  • 1200HV hard coating

Price $660

https://www.traskawatch.com/products/freediver-arctic-white

Traska Freediver

The Traska Freediver debuted in 2018 as their introductory piece, and through the years it has had quite a few changes. Jon, the owner of Traska tells me that he always wanted to create a stylish dive watch, a dress diver of sorts, but more a combination of a casual and dress dive watch, one that doesn’t look too much tuxedo but also not garish and toolish. Some of the changes over the years have been the hands, the bezel style and insert material, the movement, and the overall thickness and dimensions of the case. This V5 variant is said to be the last, (probably), as it has brought all of the elements together in one perfect package- A sleek masculine dive watch that can truly be dressed up or dressed down and not look out of place. 

One of the biggest changes through the years to this Traska Freediver has been the case. Originally, this piece was much beefier, with a brush, slab-sided case, more reminiscent of a Tudor Pelagos, and it shrunk a little with the movement change, from an NH35 to Miyota 9000 series, but then it shrunk again come V5, and also got a new profile and case finish. Now it is not only sleeker and more round, but those case sides are all highly polished.

And while high polished cases are not my favorite, the 1200 Vickers hard coating will keep it looking new a little longer. The top of the case is brushed, as is the case back and the majority of the bracelet, but the crown, bezel, and bracelet edges do have that high polish as well. The crown is signed with the Traska logo, and that logo is not just printed on the crown, but it’s like it is stamped in, and it stands out, beautifully. Another great feature of the case is drilled lugs. The bracelet doesn’t have quick-release pins either, but more on the bracelet later.

Traska Freediver

While the mint-colored dial is probably the most popular, and Traska may have been a pioneer of that dial color in the microbrand space, I just couldn’t help to be attracted to the white dial. It’s a beautiful matte dial with just a very light sheen to it. I know, if it has a sheen, is it really matte? So maybe I am contradicting myself, but either way, it’s a beautiful white, and the contrasting black hour and minute hand, along with a red second hand are a great touch, and just enough pop of color. The newer maxi indices are diamond cut and glimmer in the sunlight especially- aided by the box-style sapphire crystal this is just a clean, uncluttered dial, and being the no-date variant, it is very symmetrical. Don’t worry though, the date version doesn’t mess up that symmetry too much as the date cutout is at the 6 o’clock position and replaces an index.
That bezel insert is ceramic, a change from the sapphire version (and a stainless steel option) from the first and second variations of the Traska Freediver, and the bezel itself has been improved to be easier to grip, and have more crisp and precise action, and while I haven’t held or turned the bezels on the previous versions, I will say it is very nice to use this 120 click bezel. There is a slight issue though, and after a few bezels that have had this type of feeling, I have concluded that it has to be a certain type of bezel assembly. The issue is a slight wobble, which is hard to explain here, so make sure to check out the video.

The bracelet is a big standout of this Traska Freediver as well. I don’t know how the bracelets were on previous versions, but this is a great bracelet. Fully articulated, with links that can fold up on themselves, female end links, and a great smooth finish. To top of off, or close it up, however you want to phrase it, all of the Traska watches now have the slim tool-free micro adjustment clasps, similar to a few other microbrands, with a push button mechanism on the inside, and a little bit of link slides in and out of the clasp. Also included is a half link on both sides of the clasp, to dial in that perfect fit on the wrist.

Traska Freediver

Traska Freediver

On the wrist, this is a great watch. As I have talked about many times over the years, I used to wear much bigger watches. These days, I prefer something easily wearable, but I don’t want anything that looks dainty on my wrist. The dimensions of this watch are great, and I don’t want to say the word perfect, but the 40.5mm case with the 48mm lug to lug, combined with a flat case back and that bracelet, this is an easy-to-wear and comfortable watch, that happens to look great as well.

Lastly, we have the lume, and it’s applied well and looks great in the dark, but this is not going to be your all-night glow dive watch. The indices are large but they are not slathered with lume, and neither are the hands. That said, this is supposed to be a perfect blend of beauty and function, and massive indices or Lum-tec-looking plots really wouldn’t work on this style of watch, with that said, I think the lume is more than sufficient, especially for this style of watch.
I don’t know if this Traska Freediver was worth waiting 5 years to finally get my hands on one, but in a way, maybe it was. This is supposed to be the final version, the perfect blend of casual and dress in a dive watch, and Jon’s vision is finally realized. Traska is a popular brand, especially on social media like Instagram and Facebook watch groups, and I have seen a lot of hype over the years, and I have to say, I am impressed with this piece. Pricing has continued to go up over the years and with this model nearing that $700 mark, that means there is some stiff competition but I will say what won me over was the comfort. A lot of watches look good, and many are well made, but not all of them achieve that comfort on the wrist, and for that, the Traska Freediver stands out.

Traska Freediver

Traska Freediver Traska Freediver Traska Freediver Traska Freediver Traska Freediver Traska Freediver

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Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Review https://www.watchreport.com/ball-engineer-hydrocarbon-original-review/ https://www.watchreport.com/ball-engineer-hydrocarbon-original-review/#respond Mon, 04 Mar 2024 22:54:29 +0000 https://www.watchreport.com/?p=37599 Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Dive watches these days are everywhere. Almost every watch brand makes one. There are probably more dive watches on the market than anything else. But there are dive or diver-style watches, and then there are ultimate or extreme dive watches. That’s where the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original comes in. This watch has a lot going on, and a lot of it isn’t just what you can see. A sapphire bezel, a prominent crown guard, and a sandwich dial. Things we have seen before in one way or another. But this isn’t just your ordinary sandwich dial. And when have you seen a sandwich bezel? Oh, and underneath? Flat tritium tubes. The crown protector is patented and there is a lot of engineering going on inside as well, with lots of shock and impact protection to the case and movement. All of this doesn’t come cheap either, as the MSRP is $3,349. Specifications 40mm (listed size) 42.5mm Bezel  51mm Lug to Lug 14.5mm Thick 20mm Lug Width 212 Grams  Sapphire Crystal Sapphire Bezel Insert Sandwich Dial With Tritium Tubes BALL RR1102-CSL Movement (Base ETA 2836) COSC Certified  Patented Crown Guard  20mm tapering to 18mm Stainless Bracelet 200M Water Resistant Price $3,349 https://shop.ballwatch.ch/en/ball-watches/EH/Original-DM2118B-SCJ-BK The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is packed with a lot of technology, with a lot of shock resistance built into the movement, the case, and the crown protector. SpringLock hairspring anti-shock, SprigSeal anti-shock system, anti-magnetic to 80,000A/m, Mu Metal shield and more. This ETA 2836 movement is highly modified, and the case, crown, and movement are highly shock-resistant. This watch is built to handle hard knocks, drops bounces, and jolts while you are wearing it, without skipping a beat, or in extreme cases, damaging the movement. But you can read all those specs on the Ball website, so how does all this translate to you wearing it? Movement protection, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, these are all great things to have, but these are things you don’t notice, things the watch is doing all the time but you never see. So, what about what you do see? Let’s take that unique crown protector. As many learned early on with the dive watch, protecting the crown is as important as the water resistance. Original dive watches didn’t have crown guards, and then over time, watch brands have continued to innovate and develop new ways of crown protection, and Ball not wanting to be left behind developed their system. It’s pretty straightforward actually, you push the button on the lever and the arm can be swung down, and now you can access the crown to set the time, day/date, as well as wind it if you choose to. Reverse the process and now it’s all locked up. Or is it? Playing around with this watch, wearing it, taking photos, and doing the video, I noticed that if that button is pushed the lever will open. I know what you are thinking, isn’t that the point Don? What I mean is, if you accidentally drop it and it lands crown down, it may open. If it were to get hit against a door, a wall, a rock, whatever, it could open. Now, the crown would still be screwed down, so it wouldn’t be an issue for water ingress, but for as much Newton force that this crown protector can take, its Achilles heel is that push button to open it. While many who purchase this watch will probably never even get the watch wet, or go on rugged adventures, I do wonder what happens to the hinge if the lever gets opened accidentally and you don’t notice immediately. All that said, it’s a fun mechanism, easy to use, and it does add some flair to the watch, even if a bit of a gimmick. Is there anything wrong with a gimmick though? Fully lumed bezels, lumed crowns or clasps, and many other things are gimmicks really, but they are also cool and stand out, so why not have something different? Moving on to the bezel and dial, and yes, sandwiched beneath the dial and bezel insert are flat tritium tubes. Yes, tritium tubes. It may not look like it, but that is tritium underneath and that is a cool feature of the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. The dial itself is nothing overly crazy it’s pretty subdued with a black sunray dial, some lines of text, a day and date, and of course the RR counterweight on the second hand. The star of the show though is however they figured out how to sandwich tritium below a dial and make it look more like SuperlumiNova than the tritium tubes we normally see. And then they take it one step further, and do this to the bezel. This makes for quite a thick bezel, but gimmicky as it may be it’s pretty damn cool that they were able to design and manufacture this, and that it works quite well. Unlike painted lume, tritium tubes do not need an external light source to glow, and in the dark, this watch is going to be very easy to read. The Bezel action on the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal is a little on the sloppy side though. The grip is no issue here with how thick the bezel area is and the coin edge design, but it’s not as tight as I would have hoped. Not sure if the bezel assembly and the tritium tubes have to do with this, but I did expect it to be a little firmer. The crown itself is perfect in my opinion, smooth and precise with a great feeling, but I will say that the lever from the crown guard does kind of get in the way. Two other things stick out to me with this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, one being that for such an extremely protected watch, it’s only rated to 200m. Now I will never see those 200m depths myself, and Ball has watches that can withstand even more depths and pressure but it was something I pondered. Maybe it was to keep the thickness down, as this watch is already nearing the 15mm mark, and with even more water resistance, this would be a chunk on the wrist. The other is that there is a lot of high polish on this watch. I went on a little of a rant about this in the written review, and this is not the only Ball watch that has so much high polish, but for a watch that is intended to be used and abused, the highly polished areas of this watch are a little puzzling, at least to me. The high polish does extend to the bracelet edges and center links, but I have to give props for the bracelet overall. First, I have always loved this design, and even with that big depolyant buckle system, the bracelet is not overly heavy or chunky, yet it does balance the watch head nicely. And that buckle or clasp system, whatever you want to call it? While it is not traditional, it is not your standard deployant buckle and has two adjustment holes in it, as well as extensions on each side for going over a wetsuit or bigger cuff. You can achieve an even better fit with the half links that are integrated into the bracelet as well, two on each side, so they made sure you will be able to wear this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, no matter what you are doing. It’s a pretty large bracelet as well, and should easily fit an 8 -8 1/4 inch (20.32cm-20.96cm) wrist. Before we get to how this watch fits on my wrist, we need to discuss sizing. The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal is available in two sizes, 40mm, and 43mm, but those listed sizes are very deceiving. If you measure in one specific area, not including the crown or bezel, you do get 40mm. But the bezel is 42.5, and west to east including the crown guard, I got a whopping 47mm. Now while this watch does not look or wear like a 47mm at all, keep in mind, it doesn’t look like a 40mm either. So if you were looking at this piece and thinking it would be a good companion to your similarly sized 40mm Sub, you would be wrong. So how does it wear on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist? I have to say pretty well actually. Despite the larger-than-stated size, despite how tall the watch is on the wrist, and that extending crown guard, this feels great on the wrist. The 20mm bracelet does taper to 18mm, and while the bezel extends over the case, what sits on your wrist is a 40mm case, so it’s odd in the sense that this is a smaller watch that looks larger but wears smaller than you would think. That’s almost a riddle, but that is truly what it is, and if you really like bigger watches, go for the 43mm then, but keep in mind that is going to be more of a 45mm watch. Its bigger brother also comes in more colors, as the 40mm only comes in black. (Correction, you can get the 40mm with a red bezel/black dial as well) One thing I have always said about the watch world is that you are never without choices. These days, there are more choices and more brands than ever, and I like that brands like Ball are still pushing the envelope to be innovative, and with this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal, they really went all out with innovation and design. This model is the most subdued in the Engineer Hydrocarbon lineup in my opinion, but also the only one to have the sandwiched tritium on the dial and bezel, and in the case of this 40mm, is probably the most wearable of them all, at least for a variety of wrist sizes. At the end of the day, this is an over-engineered, highly functional, and touch watch, with customized movement, a COSC rating, a unique look, and a lot of high polish. Like a lot of Ball watches, it’s a little quirky, and even though I lean towards more traditional and as a friend of mine said recently, “plain” designs, there is no way I can ignore the coolness of this watch. If you are interested in this one or any of the Engineer Hydrocarbon lineup, you can find them all HERE.

The post Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

Dive watches these days are everywhere. Almost every watch brand makes one. There are probably more dive watches on the market than anything else. But there are dive or diver-style watches, and then there are ultimate or extreme dive watches. That’s where the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original comes in. This watch has a lot going on, and a lot of it isn’t just what you can see. A sapphire bezel, a prominent crown guard, and a sandwich dial. Things we have seen before in one way or another. But this isn’t just your ordinary sandwich dial. And when have you seen a sandwich bezel? Oh, and underneath? Flat tritium tubes. The crown protector is patented and there is a lot of engineering going on inside as well, with lots of shock and impact protection to the case and movement. All of this doesn’t come cheap either, as the MSRP is $3,349.

Specifications

  • 40mm (listed size)
  • 42.5mm Bezel 
  • 51mm Lug to Lug
  • 14.5mm Thick
  • 20mm Lug Width
  • 212 Grams 
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Sapphire Bezel Insert
  • Sandwich Dial With Tritium Tubes
  • BALL RR1102-CSL Movement (Base ETA 2836)
  • COSC Certified 
  • Patented Crown Guard 
  • 20mm tapering to 18mm Stainless Bracelet
  • 200M Water Resistant

Price $3,349

https://shop.ballwatch.ch/en/ball-watches/EH/Original-DM2118B-SCJ-BK

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original is packed with a lot of technology, with a lot of shock resistance built into the movement, the case, and the crown protector. SpringLock hairspring anti-shock, SprigSeal anti-shock system, anti-magnetic to 80,000A/m, Mu Metal shield and more. This ETA 2836 movement is highly modified, and the case, crown, and movement are highly shock-resistant. This watch is built to handle hard knocks, drops bounces, and jolts while you are wearing it, without skipping a beat, or in extreme cases, damaging the movement. But you can read all those specs on the Ball website, so how does all this translate to you wearing it?

Movement protection, shock resistance, anti-magnetism, these are all great things to have, but these are things you don’t notice, things the watch is doing all the time but you never see. So, what about what you do see? Let’s take that unique crown protector. As many learned early on with the dive watch, protecting the crown is as important as the water resistance. Original dive watches didn’t have crown guards, and then over time, watch brands have continued to innovate and develop new ways of crown protection, and Ball not wanting to be left behind developed their system. It’s pretty straightforward actually, you push the button on the lever and the arm can be swung down, and now you can access the crown to set the time, day/date, as well as wind it if you choose to. Reverse the process and now it’s all locked up. Or is it?
Playing around with this watch, wearing it, taking photos, and doing the video, I noticed that if that button is pushed the lever will open. I know what you are thinking, isn’t that the point Don? What I mean is, if you accidentally drop it and it lands crown down, it may open. If it were to get hit against a door, a wall, a rock, whatever, it could open. Now, the crown would still be screwed down, so it wouldn’t be an issue for water ingress, but for as much Newton force that this crown protector can take, its Achilles heel is that push button to open it. While many who purchase this watch will probably never even get the watch wet, or go on rugged adventures, I do wonder what happens to the hinge if the lever gets opened accidentally and you don’t notice immediately.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

All that said, it’s a fun mechanism, easy to use, and it does add some flair to the watch, even if a bit of a gimmick. Is there anything wrong with a gimmick though? Fully lumed bezels, lumed crowns or clasps, and many other things are gimmicks really, but they are also cool and stand out, so why not have something different?
Moving on to the bezel and dial, and yes, sandwiched beneath the dial and bezel insert are flat tritium tubes. Yes, tritium tubes. It may not look like it, but that is tritium underneath and that is a cool feature of the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. The dial itself is nothing overly crazy it’s pretty subdued with a black sunray dial, some lines of text, a day and date, and of course the RR counterweight on the second hand.

The star of the show though is however they figured out how to sandwich tritium below a dial and make it look more like SuperlumiNova than the tritium tubes we normally see. And then they take it one step further, and do this to the bezel. This makes for quite a thick bezel, but gimmicky as it may be it’s pretty damn cool that they were able to design and manufacture this, and that it works quite well. Unlike painted lume, tritium tubes do not need an external light source to glow, and in the dark, this watch is going to be very easy to read.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

The Bezel action on the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal is a little on the sloppy side though. The grip is no issue here with how thick the bezel area is and the coin edge design, but it’s not as tight as I would have hoped. Not sure if the bezel assembly and the tritium tubes have to do with this, but I did expect it to be a little firmer. The crown itself is perfect in my opinion, smooth and precise with a great feeling, but I will say that the lever from the crown guard does kind of get in the way.

Two other things stick out to me with this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, one being that for such an extremely protected watch, it’s only rated to 200m. Now I will never see those 200m depths myself, and Ball has watches that can withstand even more depths and pressure but it was something I pondered. Maybe it was to keep the thickness down, as this watch is already nearing the 15mm mark, and with even more water resistance, this would be a chunk on the wrist.
The other is that there is a lot of high polish on this watch. I went on a little of a rant about this in the written review, and this is not the only Ball watch that has so much high polish, but for a watch that is intended to be used and abused, the highly polished areas of this watch are a little puzzling, at least to me.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

The high polish does extend to the bracelet edges and center links, but I have to give props for the bracelet overall. First, I have always loved this design, and even with that big depolyant buckle system, the bracelet is not overly heavy or chunky, yet it does balance the watch head nicely. And that buckle or clasp system, whatever you want to call it? While it is not traditional, it is not your standard deployant buckle and has two adjustment holes in it, as well as extensions on each side for going over a wetsuit or bigger cuff. You can achieve an even better fit with the half links that are integrated into the bracelet as well, two on each side, so they made sure you will be able to wear this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, no matter what you are doing. It’s a pretty large bracelet as well, and should easily fit an 8 -8 1/4 inch (20.32cm-20.96cm) wrist.

Before we get to how this watch fits on my wrist, we need to discuss sizing. The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal is available in two sizes, 40mm, and 43mm, but those listed sizes are very deceiving. If you measure in one specific area, not including the crown or bezel, you do get 40mm. But the bezel is 42.5, and west to east including the crown guard, I got a whopping 47mm. Now while this watch does not look or wear like a 47mm at all, keep in mind, it doesn’t look like a 40mm either. So if you were looking at this piece and thinking it would be a good companion to your similarly sized 40mm Sub, you would be wrong.

So how does it wear on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist? I have to say pretty well actually. Despite the larger-than-stated size, despite how tall the watch is on the wrist, and that extending crown guard, this feels great on the wrist. The 20mm bracelet does taper to 18mm, and while the bezel extends over the case, what sits on your wrist is a 40mm case, so it’s odd in the sense that this is a smaller watch that looks larger but wears smaller than you would think. That’s almost a riddle, but that is truly what it is, and if you really like bigger watches, go for the 43mm then, but keep in mind that is going to be more of a 45mm watch. Its bigger brother also comes in more colors, as the 40mm only comes in black. (Correction, you can get the 40mm with a red bezel/black dial as well)

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

One thing I have always said about the watch world is that you are never without choices. These days, there are more choices and more brands than ever, and I like that brands like Ball are still pushing the envelope to be innovative, and with this Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Orignal, they really went all out with innovation and design. This model is the most subdued in the Engineer Hydrocarbon lineup in my opinion, but also the only one to have the sandwiched tritium on the dial and bezel, and in the case of this 40mm, is probably the most wearable of them all, at least for a variety of wrist sizes.
At the end of the day, this is an over-engineered, highly functional, and touch watch, with customized movement, a COSC rating, a unique look, and a lot of high polish. Like a lot of Ball watches, it’s a little quirky, and even though I lean towards more traditional and as a friend of mine said recently, “plain” designs, there is no way I can ignore the coolness of this watch.
If you are interested in this one or any of the Engineer Hydrocarbon lineup, you can find them all HERE.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original

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About Vintage 1956 Marine Watch Review https://www.watchreport.com/about-vintage-1956-marine-watch-review/ https://www.watchreport.com/about-vintage-1956-marine-watch-review/#respond Wed, 14 Feb 2024 19:04:53 +0000 https://www.watchreport.com/?p=37568 About Vintage 1956 Marine If you like vintage-inspired pieces, well there is a brand dedicated to that, and the About Vintage 1956 Marine is their latest piece. About Vintage is a Danish brand, hailing from Copenhagen, Denmark. It is run by two childhood friends who love watches and wanted to create a brand dedicated to the vintage side of things. And why not? Vintage is in, and it has been in, hell I remember five years ago saying how vintage is all the rage, and it still is. This new dive-style watch measures 41mm, so it is more of a modern size, but the design takes elements of watches from the 50s, such as Tudor and Blancpain. A clean stainless steel case, automatic movement, ceramic bezel insert, and 200m of water resistance. Pricing can vary depending on your strap choice, and there are a few color options, but the starting price is $449. Specifications: 41mm Stainless Steel Case 22mm Lug Width 13.8mm Thick (including crystal) 49mm Lug to Lug 90.5 grams (strap) 175.5 grams (on bracelet) Miyota 8215 Movement Domed Sapphire Crystal  Ceramic Bezel Insert 200m Water Resistant Choice of straps and bracelet.  Country of Manufacture-China Price as shown-$489 USD https://aboutvintage.com/products/1956-marine-automatic-steel-blue?variant=47257993380181 The first model I reviewed from About Vintage, the 1926 At Sea, well, to put it kindly, was just not my kind of watch. I thought quite a few things could be improved, and when I saw the promotions for this new model, the About Vintage 1956 Marine, I kind of dismissed it at first. Some may think of this as odd as a reviewer, but if you only knew the time and effort put into these reviews, you would understand why I don’t want to bother with a watch or brand I already reviewed which was somewhat disappointing. Anyway, of course, because I liked one post I then ended up seeing a few others in my feed and then I decided to take a closer look. And once I did, I was like, this really is a different watch than the previous one, a similar dial, sure, but this piece looks really good. A blockier and more substantial case, a top hat domed crystal, ceramic bezel insert, a new bracelet, and yes, that vintage Tudor-ish look about it, which I will admit, is a big part of what drew me in. I like that look. And what about that design and the finishing? Well, this diver-style watch has a very clean look about it, with a mostly brushed stainless steel case, and only a hint of high polish with that screw-down crown. With watches such as these, I just prefer that good old satin brushing, I think it helps a watch look newer for longer, hides small scratches, and also hides fingerprints as well. Under the bezel, you will find a different finish though, and that is bead blasted. Yes, the area under the raised bezel is blasted, something maybe no one else will ever see or notice, but it is some nice attention to detail, and when it comes to looks and finishing, this case has a lot to like. When it comes to the dial of the About Vintage 1956 Marine, this one being a very nice blue color, you will notice in certain pictures that it may look darker or a little lighter, and that is just due to lighting and the fact that this piece has that double domed, top hat style crystal. More on that crystal in a bit, but the dial here is a pretty straightforward, sword style hands, a lollipop second hand, and as it has become the signature for the brand, this is a part sandwich dial, with the 12 and 6 o’clock triangles and the rest of them being applied indices. It is a nice way to have the dial stand out a little and a cool signature feature. The dial could use a little less text, especially with how minimalist the logo is, but I am just someone who prefers a really clean dial, logo and brand and maybe model name text and that’s it. I talked about this in my last review and these top hat crystals do not work on every watch and are probably better on vintage-style watches like this. Fortunately the About Vintage 1956 Marine is just that, vintage. Or vintage-looking anyway. And that crystal just works so well here, it gives it the look of acrylic but with the scratch resistance of sapphire. Best of both worlds in my opinion. The bezel insert is ceramic, and well, this is one of the areas that left me disappointed. There is nothing wrong with the build quality of the insert, and the bezel action is superb, as it clicks well and is very easy to grip with that micro coin edge bezel. No, the issue is two-fold. None of the markers or numbers are lumed, not even that triangle, and what is with the fully indexed bezel till 30, but then blank except for a 45? I would have preferred it if this bezel were fully indexed. Another letdown would be the movement. This watch uses the Miyota 8215, and while this isn’t exactly the 8215 from 20 years ago, it kind of is. I haven’t noticed any stuttering that I associate with this movement normally, and yes, these newer movements do hack but with the 9000 series being such a more robust and let’s face it, better movement, I really don’t like to see these Miyota 8200 series in any watches this day and age. And the thing covering the movement, the case back? Yes, another area that left me scratching my head. The center section is left blank, in case you want it engraved (About Vintage will engrave it for you), and that’s nice and all, but why the hell is it mirror-polished? This watch was babied as much as it could be for the photos and videography I was doing, and somehow being put on my backdrops and wiping with a clean microfiber cloth, scratched it all up! (You can see this in the video as this picture was taken before it got scratched. The website even shows it to be a circular brushed case back center, but that is not what you get. It’s a shame especially if you were to get it engraved, as it would look awful in no time unless it was always set on a velvet pad handled with gloves, and only worn for a half hour a day. I know you are probably like, why is this guy getting all riled about a case back, and the simple answer is, because it is wrong, and will make that back look awful. This About Vintage 1956 Marine is also a dive watch, or well, I guess I should say dive style watch because how can it be a true dive watch without that bezel triangle being lumed? And I don’t care what watch it is, I got all up in a rage over the Titoni Seasoper 300 I reviewed with that mirror-polished back as well, though at least that one didn’t scratch when breathed upon. While the lume is improved from the 1926 At Sea, it’s still not up to the standards of a lot of microbrands, and that bezel not being lumed is just so odd, I mean just look at the picture below. It just doesn’t make sense. On the upside, you can get this new model with a wide choice of straps. The standard strap the khaki Cordura strap, is a nice enough strap with a good length of 120/80mm that fits well on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, and you can choose a second strap. Most of the straps will only cost you an extra $10, but if you want the bracelet, that will be $40. Is the extra $40 worth it? I think so, especially if you are someone who prefers a bracelet on a watch. The bracelet is quite an improvement from their standard bracelet on the 1926, and the use of larger and smaller links is a slightly different take on the oyster-style bracelets. The bracelet is solid, looks good, and has a standard but easy-to-use clasp with a few micro-adjustment holes and quick-release pins to make it easy to swap out with the strap. I think it is obvious that the two things I would change would be the movement used on the About Vintage 1956 Marine, and adding lume to the bezel. Doesn’t need to be fully lumed, but at least that triangle. Despite my ranting on the case back, the other issues take precedence, and if these things were upgraded in future iterations, this could be a killer option for the vintage Tudor-esque homage pieces, especially if they kept the pricing affordable. It looks great and feels great on the wrist, especially on the new signature bracelet, and I can’t deny I love the look, that is at least until I go into a dimly lit room and see the lack of bezel lume. 😭

The post About Vintage 1956 Marine Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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About Vintage 1956 Marine

About Vintage 1956 Marine

If you like vintage-inspired pieces, well there is a brand dedicated to that, and the About Vintage 1956 Marine is their latest piece. About Vintage is a Danish brand, hailing from Copenhagen, Denmark. It is run by two childhood friends who love watches and wanted to create a brand dedicated to the vintage side of things. And why not? Vintage is in, and it has been in, hell I remember five years ago saying how vintage is all the rage, and it still is. This new dive-style watch measures 41mm, so it is more of a modern size, but the design takes elements of watches from the 50s, such as Tudor and Blancpain. A clean stainless steel case, automatic movement, ceramic bezel insert, and 200m of water resistance. Pricing can vary depending on your strap choice, and there are a few color options, but the starting price is $449.

About Vintage 1956 Marine

Specifications:

  • 41mm Stainless Steel Case
  • 22mm Lug Width
  • 13.8mm Thick (including crystal)
  • 49mm Lug to Lug
  • 90.5 grams (strap) 175.5 grams (on bracelet)
  • Miyota 8215 Movement
  • Domed Sapphire Crystal 
  • Ceramic Bezel Insert
  • 200m Water Resistant
  • Choice of straps and bracelet. 
  • Country of Manufacture-China

Price as shown-$489 USD

https://aboutvintage.com/products/1956-marine-automatic-steel-blue?variant=47257993380181

The first model I reviewed from About Vintage, the 1926 At Sea, well, to put it kindly, was just not my kind of watch. I thought quite a few things could be improved, and when I saw the promotions for this new model, the About Vintage 1956 Marine, I kind of dismissed it at first. Some may think of this as odd as a reviewer, but if you only knew the time and effort put into these reviews, you would understand why I don’t want to bother with a watch or brand I already reviewed which was somewhat disappointing.
Anyway, of course, because I liked one post I then ended up seeing a few others in my feed and then I decided to take a closer look. And once I did, I was like, this really is a different watch than the previous one, a similar dial, sure, but this piece looks really good. A blockier and more substantial case, a top hat domed crystal, ceramic bezel insert, a new bracelet, and yes, that vintage Tudor-ish look about it, which I will admit, is a big part of what drew me in. I like that look.

And what about that design and the finishing? Well, this diver-style watch has a very clean look about it, with a mostly brushed stainless steel case, and only a hint of high polish with that screw-down crown. With watches such as these, I just prefer that good old satin brushing, I think it helps a watch look newer for longer, hides small scratches, and also hides fingerprints as well. Under the bezel, you will find a different finish though, and that is bead blasted. Yes, the area under the raised bezel is blasted, something maybe no one else will ever see or notice, but it is some nice attention to detail, and when it comes to looks and finishing, this case has a lot to like.

When it comes to the dial of the About Vintage 1956 Marine, this one being a very nice blue color, you will notice in certain pictures that it may look darker or a little lighter, and that is just due to lighting and the fact that this piece has that double domed, top hat style crystal. More on that crystal in a bit, but the dial here is a pretty straightforward, sword style hands, a lollipop second hand, and as it has become the signature for the brand, this is a part sandwich dial, with the 12 and 6 o’clock triangles and the rest of them being applied indices. It is a nice way to have the dial stand out a little and a cool signature feature. The dial could use a little less text, especially with how minimalist the logo is, but I am just someone who prefers a really clean dial, logo and brand and maybe model name text and that’s it.

About Vintage 1956 Marine

I talked about this in my last review and these top hat crystals do not work on every watch and are probably better on vintage-style watches like this. Fortunately the About Vintage 1956 Marine is just that, vintage. Or vintage-looking anyway. And that crystal just works so well here, it gives it the look of acrylic but with the scratch resistance of sapphire. Best of both worlds in my opinion.
The bezel insert is ceramic, and well, this is one of the areas that left me disappointed. There is nothing wrong with the build quality of the insert, and the bezel action is superb, as it clicks well and is very easy to grip with that micro coin edge bezel. No, the issue is two-fold. None of the markers or numbers are lumed, not even that triangle, and what is with the fully indexed bezel till 30, but then blank except for a 45? I would have preferred it if this bezel were fully indexed.

Another letdown would be the movement. This watch uses the Miyota 8215, and while this isn’t exactly the 8215 from 20 years ago, it kind of is. I haven’t noticed any stuttering that I associate with this movement normally, and yes, these newer movements do hack but with the 9000 series being such a more robust and let’s face it, better movement, I really don’t like to see these Miyota 8200 series in any watches this day and age.
And the thing covering the movement, the case back? Yes, another area that left me scratching my head. The center section is left blank, in case you want it engraved (About Vintage will engrave it for you), and that’s nice and all, but why the hell is it mirror-polished? This watch was babied as much as it could be for the photos and videography I was doing, and somehow being put on my backdrops and wiping with a clean microfiber cloth, scratched it all up! (You can see this in the video as this picture was taken before it got scratched. The website even shows it to be a circular brushed case back center, but that is not what you get. It’s a shame especially if you were to get it engraved, as it would look awful in no time unless it was always set on a velvet pad handled with gloves, and only worn for a half hour a day.

I know you are probably like, why is this guy getting all riled about a case back, and the simple answer is, because it is wrong, and will make that back look awful. This About Vintage 1956 Marine is also a dive watch, or well, I guess I should say dive style watch because how can it be a true dive watch without that bezel triangle being lumed? And I don’t care what watch it is, I got all up in a rage over the Titoni Seasoper 300 I reviewed with that mirror-polished back as well, though at least that one didn’t scratch when breathed upon.
While the lume is improved from the 1926 At Sea, it’s still not up to the standards of a lot of microbrands, and that bezel not being lumed is just so odd, I mean just look at the picture below. It just doesn’t make sense.

About Vintage 1956 Marine

On the upside, you can get this new model with a wide choice of straps. The standard strap the khaki Cordura strap, is a nice enough strap with a good length of 120/80mm that fits well on my 7 1/2 inch (19.05cm) wrist, and you can choose a second strap. Most of the straps will only cost you an extra $10, but if you want the bracelet, that will be $40.

Is the extra $40 worth it? I think so, especially if you are someone who prefers a bracelet on a watch. The bracelet is quite an improvement from their standard bracelet on the 1926, and the use of larger and smaller links is a slightly different take on the oyster-style bracelets. The bracelet is solid, looks good, and has a standard but easy-to-use clasp with a few micro-adjustment holes and quick-release pins to make it easy to swap out with the strap.

About Vintage 1956 Marine

I think it is obvious that the two things I would change would be the movement used on the About Vintage 1956 Marine, and adding lume to the bezel. Doesn’t need to be fully lumed, but at least that triangle. Despite my ranting on the case back, the other issues take precedence, and if these things were upgraded in future iterations, this could be a killer option for the vintage Tudor-esque homage pieces, especially if they kept the pricing affordable. It looks great and feels great on the wrist, especially on the new signature bracelet, and I can’t deny I love the look, that is at least until I go into a dimly lit room and see the lack of bezel lume. 😭

About Vintage 1956 Marine

About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine About Vintage 1956 Marine

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Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Hands-On Review https://www.watchreport.com/bernhardt-binnacle-timer-hands-on-review/ https://www.watchreport.com/bernhardt-binnacle-timer-hands-on-review/#respond Mon, 22 Jan 2024 23:56:25 +0000 https://www.watchreport.com/?p=37535 Bernhardt Binnacle Timer As I was preparing this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer review, it occurred to me that next year, Bernhardt, based in North Carolina will be twenty years old. Yes, Bernhardt is one of the OG microbrands and next year they will have been producing watches for two decades. Now keep in mind part of why it just dawned on me as I can’t believe it’s going to be 2025 next year, because in my head it is still like 2002, and the ’90s isn’t 30 years ago! Back to the present though, and late last year Bernhardt released their latest model, using their popular retro case, the Binnalce Timer. This new model takes that ’60s case design and in it we get a new dial and hands as well as a new inner bezel, this time more dive-orientated with a countdown and elapsed timing bezel, which is operated by the screw-down 2 o’clock crown. The Binnacle Timer also has a slightly domed sapphire crystal, comes in two dial colors (porthole gray and burgee green ), and uses the reliable Miyota 9015, all for $499. Specifications: 41mm Satin Brushed Stainless Steel Case 13mm Thick 22m Lug Width 47mm Lug to Lug 164 Grams in Weight Sapphire Crystal Miyota 9015 Movement 200m Water Resistant Screw Down Main and Inner Bezel Crowns C1 SuperLumiNova Mesh Bracelet Manufactured in Asia, assembled in North Carolina Price USD $499 BERNHARDT WEBSITE For those who are loyal followers of the Bernhardt brand, you probably know that Fred Amos, founder of the company, passed away in 2022. His wife, son, and a few others are still running the company though, and this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer is the first new release since his passing.  You probably also know that this case design is not exactly new, as it dates back to 2013 with the Binnalce Retro, and a few years later the Retro World. There may have been another variation I missed, but this case design has been used for a few models now. Retro watches are still just as, if not more popular than when this case design was first released, and now taking that ’60s cushion case design and using it for a dive watch, was a good decision. At 41mm and 13mm thick, this entirely satin-brushed steel case isn’t exactly svelte, and due to the case not tapering in thickness to a bezel, it makes it look even chunkier, so it’s somewhat a chunky piece without exactly being chunky. To my eyes, it looks bigger than it is when not being worn, especially from the profile view, yet on my 7 1/2 inch wrist, it feels substantial yet it doesn’t feel like I have a 16 or 18mm monster on my wrist either. As a matter of fact, due to the short lug to lug, the flat case back, and just the overall profile, this is a very comfortable watch on the wrist, and I didn’t find the two crowns digging into the back of my hand. Yes, it may not slip under some shirt cuffs, but this is not a dress or office watch per se, more of that purpose-built style of watch or more of a casual weekend piece. The dial here is pretty straightforward, and in my opinion, that’s a good thing. No gimmicks, no unnecessary text or symbols, and the gray asphalt textured dial with the black and inner bezel and the touches of orange on the bezel and the orange second hand are just enough contrast to keep this watch from looking too plain, and the contrast of white. black and orange allow this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer dial to be very easy to read at a glance. The inner bezel is operated by the 2 o’clock crown and as I mentioned earlier, you can use it for elapsed and countdown timing, as there are two sets of numbers. The bezel is bi-directional and in my example, it works smoothly and the crown locks it back down into place with authority. Speaking of those crowns, both crowns are large but the main (time and date) crown is massive at just over 8mm, and not only is it a cool aesthetic, but this means you will be able to use this crown no matter how big your hands are. And this crown as large as it is, doesn’t look out of place on this watch due to how the case is all one piece and kinda blocky, it all just seems to work together. The bezel crown is a little smaller, but still large but can be a little harder to grab with the cutout into the case, but still doable, at least for my fingers. On the back, you will find a laser engraved hourglass and all your pertinent info, but otherwise, this is a pretty simple case back, again, all brushed steel, and it’s pretty flat, though you’ll notice how it isn’t just flat, but how this area is almost sunken into that large, case, which is why this watch fits so well on the wrist, as it’s not being raised off your wrist at all. The movement behind it is the Miyota 9015, a very popular and reliable movement and while countless brands use this movement in their watches these days, one thing that has become a rarity is seeing it in watches at $500. I  have had a lot of watches this past year or two come my way in this price category and they had a Seiko NH35 movement. Nothing wrong with that movement, but it is a cheaper and well, a lesser movement, so it is nice to see the 9015 being used in the Bernhardt Binnacle Timer. The Bernhardt Binnacle Timer still comes with the mesh link bracelet that its predecessors had, and this is one area that I wish they decided to upgrade as well. The mesh bracelet is admittedly never been my favorite so I absolutely have a bias, but I just think this watch could use a different style of bracelet, or maybe even a good rubber strap. The bracelet is a nice tight weave and the links are easy to remove, overall it feels good quality. With the design of this case, and 22mm lugs, switching out to a third-party strap or bracelet should be a breeze and this is the type of watch that would look good on almost any strap. I didn’t have a 22mm rubber handy, but I did have this brown minimal stitch strap, so I threw it on to show you an alternative to the mesh. Again, this is one of the straps I had lying around and not a Bernhardt strap. As usual, here we have the lume and it is listed as C1 SuperlumiNova, even with the small indices, this watch does a good job of lighting up in the dark, and it looks to be a good even coating on the indices and hands. The stick second hand is fully coated in orange lume. I originally thought the second hand had no lume and though it doesn’t light up like the hour and minute hands do, it is in fact lumed. In my testing, it’s not going to last all night, you’re probably looking around 3 hours before it completely fades out. I am glad to see that this long-standing microbrand is still in business and the Bernhardt Binnacle Timer is a fun watch, with a great retro case, a clean, easy-to-read dial, and the practicality of a dual-use bezel. I like the grey and the green dial, which kind of has an emerald green look about it looks nice, but I wouldn’t mind seeing a few other colors, maybe a blue, orange, or white, which would be striking. The price is great for all that you are getting, even if this case design has been used a few times but at $500, you don’t see a lot of Miyota 9015-powered watches, even fewer that are assembled in the USA. I can’t wait to see what Bernhardt has in store for 2024, and hopefully, I will be covering their next model here on the site. Head over to the Bernhardt website to see all the other models they have available and learn more about their history.

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Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

As I was preparing this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer review, it occurred to me that next year, Bernhardt, based in North Carolina will be twenty years old. Yes, Bernhardt is one of the OG microbrands and next year they will have been producing watches for two decades. Now keep in mind part of why it just dawned on me as I can’t believe it’s going to be 2025 next year, because in my head it is still like 2002, and the ’90s isn’t 30 years ago!
Back to the present though, and late last year Bernhardt released their latest model, using their popular retro case, the Binnalce Timer. This new model takes that ’60s case design and in it we get a new dial and hands as well as a new inner bezel, this time more dive-orientated with a countdown and elapsed timing bezel, which is operated by the screw-down 2 o’clock crown. The Binnacle Timer also has a slightly domed sapphire crystal, comes in two dial colors (porthole gray and burgee green ), and uses the reliable Miyota 9015, all for $499.

Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

Specifications:

  • 41mm Satin Brushed Stainless Steel Case
  • 13mm Thick
  • 22m Lug Width
  • 47mm Lug to Lug
  • 164 Grams in Weight
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Miyota 9015 Movement
  • 200m Water Resistant
  • Screw Down Main and Inner Bezel Crowns
  • C1 SuperLumiNova
  • Mesh Bracelet
  • Manufactured in Asia, assembled in North Carolina

Price USD $499

BERNHARDT WEBSITE

Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

For those who are loyal followers of the Bernhardt brand, you probably know that Fred Amos, founder of the company, passed away in 2022. His wife, son, and a few others are still running the company though, and this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer is the first new release since his passing.  You probably also know that this case design is not exactly new, as it dates back to 2013 with the Binnalce Retro, and a few years later the Retro World. There may have been another variation I missed, but this case design has been used for a few models now. Retro watches are still just as, if not more popular than when this case design was first released, and now taking that ’60s cushion case design and using it for a dive watch, was a good decision.

Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

At 41mm and 13mm thick, this entirely satin-brushed steel case isn’t exactly svelte, and due to the case not tapering in thickness to a bezel, it makes it look even chunkier, so it’s somewhat a chunky piece without exactly being chunky. To my eyes, it looks bigger than it is when not being worn, especially from the profile view, yet on my 7 1/2 inch wrist, it feels substantial yet it doesn’t feel like I have a 16 or 18mm monster on my wrist either. As a matter of fact, due to the short lug to lug, the flat case back, and just the overall profile, this is a very comfortable watch on the wrist, and I didn’t find the two crowns digging into the back of my hand. Yes, it may not slip under some shirt cuffs, but this is not a dress or office watch per se, more of that purpose-built style of watch or more of a casual weekend piece.

The dial here is pretty straightforward, and in my opinion, that’s a good thing. No gimmicks, no unnecessary text or symbols, and the gray asphalt textured dial with the black and inner bezel and the touches of orange on the bezel and the orange second hand are just enough contrast to keep this watch from looking too plain, and the contrast of white. black and orange allow this Bernhardt Binnacle Timer dial to be very easy to read at a glance.
The inner bezel is operated by the 2 o’clock crown and as I mentioned earlier, you can use it for elapsed and countdown timing, as there are two sets of numbers. The bezel is bi-directional and in my example, it works smoothly and the crown locks it back down into place with authority.

Speaking of those crowns, both crowns are large but the main (time and date) crown is massive at just over 8mm, and not only is it a cool aesthetic, but this means you will be able to use this crown no matter how big your hands are. And this crown as large as it is, doesn’t look out of place on this watch due to how the case is all one piece and kinda blocky, it all just seems to work together. The bezel crown is a little smaller, but still large but can be a little harder to grab with the cutout into the case, but still doable, at least for my fingers.

On the back, you will find a laser engraved hourglass and all your pertinent info, but otherwise, this is a pretty simple case back, again, all brushed steel, and it’s pretty flat, though you’ll notice how it isn’t just flat, but how this area is almost sunken into that large, case, which is why this watch fits so well on the wrist, as it’s not being raised off your wrist at all.
The movement behind it is the Miyota 9015, a very popular and reliable movement and while countless brands use this movement in their watches these days, one thing that has become a rarity is seeing it in watches at $500. I  have had a lot of watches this past year or two come my way in this price category and they had a Seiko NH35 movement. Nothing wrong with that movement, but it is a cheaper and well, a lesser movement, so it is nice to see the 9015 being used in the Bernhardt Binnacle Timer.

The Bernhardt Binnacle Timer still comes with the mesh link bracelet that its predecessors had, and this is one area that I wish they decided to upgrade as well. The mesh bracelet is admittedly never been my favorite so I absolutely have a bias, but I just think this watch could use a different style of bracelet, or maybe even a good rubber strap.

The bracelet is a nice tight weave and the links are easy to remove, overall it feels good quality. With the design of this case, and 22mm lugs, switching out to a third-party strap or bracelet should be a breeze and this is the type of watch that would look good on almost any strap. I didn’t have a 22mm rubber handy, but I did have this brown minimal stitch strap, so I threw it on to show you an alternative to the mesh. Again, this is one of the straps I had lying around and not a Bernhardt strap.

As usual, here we have the lume and it is listed as C1 SuperlumiNova, even with the small indices, this watch does a good job of lighting up in the dark, and it looks to be a good even coating on the indices and hands. The stick second hand is fully coated in orange lume. I originally thought the second hand had no lume and though it doesn’t light up like the hour and minute hands do, it is in fact lumed. In my testing, it’s not going to last all night, you’re probably looking around 3 hours before it completely fades out.

I am glad to see that this long-standing microbrand is still in business and the Bernhardt Binnacle Timer is a fun watch, with a great retro case, a clean, easy-to-read dial, and the practicality of a dual-use bezel. I like the grey and the green dial, which kind of has an emerald green look about it looks nice, but I wouldn’t mind seeing a few other colors, maybe a blue, orange, or white, which would be striking.
The price is great for all that you are getting, even if this case design has been used a few times but at $500, you don’t see a lot of Miyota 9015-powered watches, even fewer that are assembled in the USA. I can’t wait to see what Bernhardt has in store for 2024, and hopefully, I will be covering their next model here on the site. Head over to the Bernhardt website to see all the other models they have available and learn more about their history.
Bernhardt Binnacle Timer
Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer Bernhardt Binnacle Timer

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