Rolex Watch Reviews & News

The New Rolex Sky-Dweller

by James Stacey on March 12, 2012

in Rolex,Travel Watches,Watch News

Late last week, we showed you two new divers from Tudor and while they arguably stole the show from big-brother Rolex, that doesn’t mean Rolex didn’t come out and play at all. The big announcement from Rolex this year is the new Sky-Dweller which offers some fantastic technology but unfortunately wraps it up in a dial design that seems to have left Basel attendees rather cold. This new 42mm model comes in the three variations seen below and offers a technological first for Rolex, a watch with both an annual calendar and dual timezones. I will do my best to explain these, but please see the included video as the visual is quite helpful. The annual calendar complication means the Sky-Dweller can account for how many days are in each month so, with the exception of leap years, the Sky-Dweller won’t need to have its date advanced for months with less than 31 days. Further more, the month itself is cleverly shown on the dial via an aperture at each hour marker (see photos, eight o’clock is a different color so the Sky-Dweller is indicating it’s August), very cool.

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Basel 2012 officially opens today but we are already getting some exciting announcements from the show floor. Yesterday, Tudor (sibling brand of Rolex) announced the new Pelagos and Heritage Black Bay divers. The titanium-cased Pelagos looks amazing as it features a snow-flake hour hand (a nod to Tudor’s past), is completely satin finished (Rolex got all the bling in this family) and the Pelagos shows its Submariner roots without simply being an ETA powered Rolex clone. The Heritage Black Bay is a continuation of the successful Heritage line which Tudor launched in 2010. This new 41 mm diver is a modern look at a nearly fifty year old design from Rolex and Tudor. Both of these divers offer a glimpse into two different sides of Tudor, a company that has the unfavorable position of having to continually prove its relevance and find its groove while often seeing much of the spotlight go to Rolex.

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The New Rolex Explorer II

by James Stacey on March 25, 2011

in Rolex,Travel Watches,Watch News,Watch Talk

Just in time for the 40th anniversary of the 1655 Explorer II, Rolex has announced the new model which features a series of changes over the outgoing Explorer II. The new series (ref: 216570) is available with a black or white dial, features an all orange GMT hand, and houses the new 3187 Rolex calibre in a larger 42mm case (last gen was 39mm). Rolex has made this new chronometer movement entirely in house and and it features some of their cutting edge technology including Paraflex shock absorbers and a non-magnetic Parachrom hairspring for excellent timekeeping and durability.

This movement allows the GMT hand to be independently set apart from standard timekeeping and is read using the 24hr fixed bezel. The all orange GMT hand is noteworthy as it follows the style of the original Explorer II from 1971. The new 42mm case is made from 904L stainless steel which is standard on Rolex sport models and is matched with a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating and a cyclops for date magnification.

Water resistance is unchanged at 100m but Rolex has updated this new model with its signature chapter ring that repeats “rolex” around the circumference of the dial, this is really the only change we aren’t wild about as it is quite flashy for what once was a tool watch. The outgoing generation was due for an update and Rolex had teased the possibility of an all orange GMT hand on a future explorer at Basel 2010. We haven’t seen a price listed yet but it is expected to be a little higher than the $6325 USD that the outgoing model was listed at.

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The New Rolex Explorer

by admin on March 21, 2010

in Formal Watches,Rolex,Watch News

The New Rolex Explorer

Rolex's second announcement this year at BaselWorld 2010 was a redesigned Explorer. I've always loved the Explorer for its unparalleled simplicity and stark elegance, but at only 36 millimeters, it was a tad bit diminutive by today's standards. Not anymore. The size of the new Explorer is much more in line with modern expectations.

Below is a list of everything that's new in the new Rolex Explorer:

  • 39 millimeters rather than 36. That's only one millimeter smaller than their other tool watches (like the new Rolex Submariner Date).
  • The movement now uses the new Parachrom Blue hairspring which we discussed previously in the context of the Rolex Milgauss.
  • The now-standard signed chapter ring   not my favorite new feature, but believe me, I wouldn't let it stop me from wearing one.
  • Slightly redesigned dial: the word "EXPLORER" has been moved from the top where it used to be down to the bottom.

Features that haven't changed:

  • COCS certified.
  • Solid steel case and bracelet.
  • Sapphire crystal.
  • Screwdown crown.
  • Water-resistant to 100 meters or 330 feet.
  • No date (part of what it makes it so simple and beautiful).

Not sure yet on pricing or availability. I'll update when I know more.

By Christian Cantrell

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New Rolex Submariner Date (Green)
New Rolex Submariner Date (Black)

Rolex has finally introduced the long-awaited redesigned Rolex Submariner Date at BaselWorld 2010. It looks like the community is still digesting the changes and hasn't really come down on one side or the other yet, but I'm happy to go on record and admit to loving it. The Submariner has always been one of my favorite watches, and I think Rolex has actually managed to improve it significantly.

Here are the specs:

  • 40mm case (no change in size, but the design is updated).
  • New ceramic bezel with platinum graduations. (Ceramic is much more scratch- and UV-resistant than the old anodized aluminum, however it's also much more expensive to replace.)
  • "Maxi dial" (meaning larger markers than the previous design as foreshadowed in the 50th Anniversary Edition).
  • Sapphire crystal with AR-coated cyclops magnifier over the date (no change).
  • Water-resistant to 300 meters or 1,000 feet (no change).
  • New Oyster bracelet with a Glidelock clasp similar to what's on the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. This is a significant improvement over the older Oysterlock bracelet.
  • Same 3135 calibre movement, but with the addition of the Parachrom Blue hairspring which we've discussed before on the Rolex Milgauss.
  • Signed chapter ring (the ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX…. you see between the bezel and the dial).

The new Submariner Date will also be available in green as pictured here. The reports I'm seeing on price are somewhere in the neighborhood of $7,500, but that's just an early estimate (and seems a tad bit high to me — I'll post an update when I can get some confirmation).

By Christian Cantrell

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Rolex Submariner 50th Anniversary

I can't tell you how many reviews of the Rolex Submariner can be found today on the internet. Indeed, there are dozens. So how does one write yet another review of such a classic and iconic watch? It's unlikely that I can provide any new information that can't already be found elsewhere online, but there is one thing I can relate that you won't find anywhere else: my personal experience with buying and owning a Rolex.

I'm an electrical engineer by trade. Because of my training, I've always been fascinated by Rolex watches. They represent an incredibly high standard in mechanical precision and accuracy. Many consider Rolex products to be among the finest in the world. Admittedly, just about any good quartz watch is going to be more accurate, but the same can be said for any mechanical watch. And the appeal of a fine watch isn't about accuracy, of course, but rather the combination of elegance, style, and engineering achievement. To some, a Rolex is merely a status symbol, but in my world, it represents all of the professional values to which I aspire: accuracy, precision, craftsmanship, and excellence.

For many years, I'd been planning this purchase. I wanted to buy a Submariner, but initially couldn't decide whether to buy one with the standard black bezel, or the Anniversary edition with the green bezel. I ultimately went with the green knowing that Submariner bezels are available in other colors color, so I later swapped the green bezel out for a black one. As you can see from the photo gallery, the results are striking.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller

Without a doubt, the Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of my favorite watches of all time. It represents everything I look for in a watch of this sort: simplicity, quality, functionality, and stark beauty.

The Sea-Dweller is one of the less common Rolex sport models. While the Submariner is produced in several combinations of materials and colors, there is only one Sea-Dweller. It is only available in all stainless steel, and only with a black dial and black bezel. Rolex designed the Sea-Dweller purely as a dive tool — not a fashion accessory.

Features of the Rolex Sea-Dweller:

  • Guaranteed waterproof to 1,200 meters, or 4,000 feet (that's significantly higher than the 1,000 foot rating of the Submariner).
  • 40mm stainless steel case which sits 14.5mm high.
  • Ultra-thick synthetic sapphire crystal.
  • Unidirectional rotating bezel with a corrosion resistant anodized aluminum insert.
  • No date magnifier. I don't mind the "cyclops" on my Explorer II, but I prefer the cleaner look of the Sea-Dweller.
  • Helium escape valve. Developed in cooperation with the French industrial diving company, Comex, the helium escape valve allows helium molecules to safely escape without popping the crystal off the watch during decompression (I told you this is a hardcore dive tool).
  • Dive extension. The dive extension on the Sea-Dweller is actually nothing to write home about, but it's sufficient. This is one of the biggest improvements of the new Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA.
  • Triplock screwdown crown. The Triplock system uses an additional rubber gasket (clearly visible when the crown is unscrewed) beyond the Twinlock system used on many other Rolex sport models like the old GMT Master II and the Explorer II. The crown threads beautifully, and feels incredibly robust and secure.
  • Quick-change and quick-set date. Quick-change means that the date changes over to the next day instantly almost exactly at midnight (as opposed to changing gradually over the course of several minutes before and after midnight). Quick-set means that you can set the date while the crown is pulled out to the second position rather than having to change the time in order to change the date.

Some other interesting facts about the Rolex Sea-Dweller, and Rolex in general:

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Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA

At BaselWorld 2008 this year, Rolex announced an update to their already amazing, top-of-the-line diver: The Rolex Sea-Dweller. They're calling the new model the Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. The DEEPSEA has several changes from the original Sea-Dweller:

  • As with the new Yacht-Master 2, it's more heavily branded. The previous Sea-Dweller was notable for its restraint; this one adds the "ROLEX" repeated around the chapter ring, additional blurbs on top of the "ringlock", and "DEEPSEA" above the center. At least there's still no cyclops (date magnifier), and thankfully, they did not add polished center links like the new GMT Master 2.
  • As with the Anniversary Submariner and new GMT Master 2, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA gets the new "maxi-dial" which means that the hour markers are larger, and both the the minute hand and the hour hands are slightly wider.
  • The depth rating increases from silly to ludicrous: 1,220m (4,000ft) on the original to 3,900m (12,800ft) on the DEEPSEA.
  • The crystal goes from flat thick sapphire to domed thick sapphire.
  • New super-hard ceramic bezel with platinum-filled numbers. We first saw this design on the new GMT Master 2.
  • Much-improved ratcheting clasp that increases in 1.8mm increments.
  • The caseback goes from flat stainless steel to a titanium/steel alloy.
  • The new "Ringlock System", which is a stainless steel ring under the crystal that absorbs some of the pressure.
  • New blue-colored lume on the dial and bezel dot — very cool!.
  • Larger case with slightly updating styling.

As before, it has a helium escape valve, which only matters if you do saturation diving. The movement is the same 3135, but with the addition of the new antimagnetic Parachrom Blue hairspring which we've discussed before on the Rolex Milgauss.

Price was not announced, but expect it to be steep. The Sea-Dweller has always been one of their more expensive models, and these updates certainly won't make it any cheaper. (We'll update this article when pricing is available.)

I was honestly a bit surprised to see this update. Rolex is usually slow to revise or introduce new models, and they've done several in the past year or two: The Anniversary Submariner, The Rolex Milgauss, The new Yacht-Master 2, the new GMT Master 2, the Cellini, and now the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. While I don't always like the results, I'm delighted to see Rolex increasing the pace and updating their classic styles. Bravo!

By Paul Hubbard

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The New Rolex Milgauss

by admin on May 19, 2007

in Rolex,Watch News,Watch Talk

Rolex Milgauss

Christian already told you about the new Rolex Yacht-Master II and the new
GMT Master II.
The other Rolex announcement at Basel of interest is the new Rolex Milgauss, so named for its ability to resist a magnetic field of 1,000 Gauss.

Why should you care?

If you take a mechanical watch into a strong magnetic field, some of
the parts in the movement become magnetized which causes problems;
typically the watch will start to run quite fast and require
demagnetization. The hairspring, made of an alloy called Nivarox,
is particularly susceptible. A watch is normally
considered "antimagnetic" (DIN 8309) if it can ignore 4,800 A/m.
This works out to about 60 gauss, or 6% of what the new
Rolex is rated for. Rolex achieved the superior rating of the Milgauss by encasing the movement
in soft iron, which is known as a Faraday cage. They
also introduced a new hairspring material, Parachrom-Blu,
which is unaffected by magnetism. Quite an achievement!

The Milgauss model has an interesting history. It was introduced in
1954 for people who worked in environments with strong magnetic fields:
power plants, research labs, etc. As you might
suspect, that's a pretty small market, further crowded by the IWC Ingenieur,
the Patek Philippe Amagnetic, and the Omega Railmaster, all of which had similar magnetic
resistance. The Milgauss was the slowest seller in the Rolex lineup,
and was sold for about 20 years before being removed from their catalog.

The Milgauss comes in the new, slightly larger case size of 40mm,
with the 3131 movement. There are white and black dial versions available,
both with a nifty and surprisingly modern lightning shaped second hand
and 'ROLEXROLEXROLEX' around the face on the chapter ring.
(As Christian noted, for better or worse, the new models
are more heavily branded than their predecessors.)
One difference between the two versions is that the black dial has a
sapphire crystal that is slightly green at an angle, as you can see from the
image gallery on their site. List price on both is rumored to be $5,900.

One word of caution: for the new model, Rolex also lists "medical
imaging" as a target market, but a bit of math reveals this to be disingenuous.
Current MRI systems start at 0.3T and go
up to 5T. Even the smallest of those is 3 times the rating of the Milgauss,
so don't take your new watch into the MRI!

I used to work in a couple of physics labs, so I like seeing
reintroduction like this. Nowadays, the IWC Ingenieur and
Ball Engineer are the only competition for mechanical watches designed to function in
strong magnetic fields. Compared to the competition, the Milgauss adds an elegant face, first-class movement,
the unique second hand, and the green sapphire crystal.
I've never considered a Rolex before, but if I do, it'll be the black-faced Milgauss.

By Paul Hubbard

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Rolex Yacht-Master II

At BaselWorld 2007, Rolex announced a new sports watch for yachtsmen: the Rolex Yacht-Master II. When Rolex releases a sequel to an existing model, you can always expect to see impressive new functionality. Rolex made significant changes to the GMT Master movement between the original GMT Master, and the GMT Master II, the latter allowing the hour hand and the 24-hour hand to be set independently. Likewise, the Explorer II changed dramatically from the original Explorer, adopting the same movement as the GMT Master II which added a 24-hour hand and date. And now the Yacht-Master II represents another extremely important step in Rolex evolution.

I'm not a boater myself, but in my opinion, the original Yacht-Master doesn't really do much more for yachtsmen than a standard dive watch can do. The bi-directional rotating bezel can be used to track the start sequence of a regatta (fancy word for boat race), and the Triplock crown keeps the case impervious to sea spray, but that's about it. Nothing else except the name, and possibly the watch's exorbitant price, really has much to do with yacht racing.

Not so, with the Yacht-Master II. The new version has an extremely complex and innovative new movement with a countdown timer which can be programmed to start between one and ten minutes in order to accommodate regattas with varying start sequences. I use the term "program" rather than simply "set" because the value is actually remembered, and when the countdown timer is reset, the countdown hand will return to the last programmed value. For a mechanical watch, this is an extremely impressive feat. There is a tradeoff, however: the date which was present in the initial Yacht-Master had to go to make room on the dial, and no doubt to allow for the additional complication of the movement.

The other tradeoff is that the Yacht-Master II is a tad complicated to operate. For watch aficionados, a single demonstration will probably be a sufficient lesson, but I'm sure the Yacht-Master II will be worn by plenty of yachting types who appreciate the aesthetics much more than the functionality, and for whom it will be enough of a challenge to keep the time set correctly. For a very good demonstration of how the Yacht-Master II works, check out the Yacht-Master II home page on Rolex's site, and specifically, the operational tutorial.

I found the reaction from the hardcore Rolex fans out there to be mixed. I think most of them were so accustomed to looking at more or less the same Rolex styles for so many years that the new Yacht-Master II really caught them off-guard. The two biggest complaints I heard focused on the surprisingly prominent "YACHT-MASTER II" branding on the bezel (for better or for worse, the new generation of Rolex watches are much more heavily branded), and the fact that you have to unscrew the crown in order to set the countdown timer, leaving the watch more vulnerable to moisture, of which there tends to be plenty around yachts.

Whether you like the new Yacht-Master II or not, there is no denying that it represents a major new innovation in the world of watchmaking. In many ways, Rolex is the Apple (as in computers) of the Swiss watch world. They are arrogant and secretive, they end up setting most of the trends, and they command an extremely loyal following who sometimes complains, but in the end, always comes around.

The new Rolex Yacht-Master II is rumored to start appearing this summer. It will be available in yellow or white gold, and is expected to retail somewhere around $30,000 (no, that's not a typo — the theory is that if you can afford a yacht, you can afford a Yacht-Master II).

By Christian Cantrell

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