We wrote about the
MTM Special Ops Watch
in September of 2005, and found them unique, functional, and durable. We can now add "stealthy" to the list with the release of their three new models available in a camouflage
finish. Stainless steel is difficult to paint, so MTM had to PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) them
first, then apply paint. Not only is each watch individually numbered since this is a limited edition series, but each watch also has a slightly different paint
job, so no two are alike. From MTM's site:
Each Camouflage Hawk is unique - no two are the same. The patented Camouflage finish is a painstaking process with each watch showing variations and slight imperfections in color and design. These variations are not defects but rather they add to the character and uniqueness of each and every Camouflage Hawk.
MTM has also added four watches in
titanium for those preferring a lighter-weight timepiece. The titanium
pieces are PVD and plain -- no cool camouflage. I was a bit surprised that
the crystals are mineral instead of sapphire, which would be more
durable, but would also drive the cost up.
If you're looking for a rugged watch with an unusual look and some interesting history, go see what MTM has to offer.
By Paul Hubbard
At BaselWorld 2007, Rolex announced a new sports watch for yachtsmen: the Rolex Yacht-Master II. When Rolex releases a sequel to an existing model, you can always expect to see impressive new functionality. Rolex made significant changes to the GMT Master movement between the original GMT Master, and the GMT Master II, the latter allowing the hour hand and the 24-hour hand to be set independently. Likewise, the Explorer II changed dramatically from the original Explorer, adopting the same movement as the GMT Master II which added a 24-hour hand and date. And now the Yacht-Master II represents another extremely important step in Rolex evolution.
I'm not a boater myself, but in my opinion, the original Yacht-Master doesn't really do much more for yachtsmen than a standard dive watch can do. The bi-directional rotating bezel can be used to track the start sequence of a regatta (fancy word for boat race), and the Triplock crown keeps the case impervious to sea spray, but that's about it. Nothing else except the name, and possibly the watch's exorbitant price, really has much to do with yacht racing.
Not so, with the Yacht-Master II. The new version has an extremely complex and innovative new movement with a countdown timer which can be programmed to start between one and ten minutes in order to accommodate regattas with varying start sequences. I use the term "program" rather than simply "set" because the value is actually remembered, and when the countdown timer is reset, the countdown hand will return to the last programmed value. For a mechanical watch, this is an extremely impressive feat. There is a tradeoff, however: the date which was present in the initial Yacht-Master had to go to make room on the dial, and no doubt to allow for the additional complication of the movement.
The other tradeoff is that the Yacht-Master II is a tad complicated to operate. For watch aficionados, a single demonstration will probably be a sufficient lesson, but I'm sure the Yacht-Master II will be worn by plenty of yachting types who appreciate the aesthetics much more than the functionality, and for whom it will be enough of a challenge to keep the time set correctly. For a very good demonstration of how the Yacht-Master II works, check out the Yacht-Master II home page on Rolex's site, and specifically, the operational tutorial.
I found the reaction from the hardcore Rolex fans out there to be mixed. I think most of them were so accustomed to looking at more or less the same Rolex styles for so many years that the new Yacht-Master II really caught them off-guard. The two biggest complaints I heard focused on the surprisingly prominent "YACHT-MASTER II" branding on the bezel (for better or for worse, the new generation of Rolex watches are much more heavily branded), and the fact that you have to unscrew the crown in order to set the countdown timer, leaving the watch more vulnerable to moisture, of which there tends to be plenty around yachts.
Whether you like the new Yacht-Master II or not, there is no denying that it represents a major new innovation in the world of watchmaking. In many ways, Rolex is the Apple (as in computers) of the Swiss watch world. They are arrogant and secretive, they end up setting most of the trends, and they command an extremely loyal following who sometimes complains, but in the end, always comes around.
The new Rolex Yacht-Master II is rumored to start appearing this summer. It will be available in yellow or white gold, and is expected to retail somewhere around $30,000 (no, that's not a typo -- the theory is that if you can afford a yacht, you can afford a Yacht-Master II).
We previously wrote about Seiko's innovative
Spring Drive watches,
and I'm personally a big fan of their
Marinemaster Spring Drive diver.
At the annual Baselworld conference, Seiko announced the long-awaited
Spring Drive chronograph. Unfortunately, it's a 300-piece limited edition, with an exclusive price of
€5,500 (about $7,500).
There's a lot to like about the Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph and its design,
including:
- Glide motion movement, meaning all hands move completely smoothly, not in "ticks".
- Titanium case and bracelet.
- GMT (24-hour) hand.
- 12-hour chronograph (the only glide motion chronograph in the world).
- 72-hour power reserve indicator.
- Date.
- See-through sapphire caseback.
- Deployment clasp with push-button release.
- Water-resistant to 10 meters, or about 30 feet.
I've always liked the idea of the Spring Drive movement -- primarily for its superior accuracy, and its completely smooth motion -- and now that it has been enhanced with a glide-motion chronograph, I'm extremely intrigued. Hopefully, this technology will move out of the realm of the limited edition and into the mainstream very soon.
By Paul Hubbard
Last year, Rolex introduced the 50th anniversary edition of the GMT Master II. The improvements over the older style GMT Master II (which I reviewed about a year ago) seemed substantial, but there was one major problem: it was only available in two-tone (18k gold and stainless steel). For two-tone lovers, it was a dream come true, but being a pure stainless steel man myself, I decided to hold off even writing about the update until there were other options.
At BaselWorld 2007, Rolex finally made the announcement I've been waiting for: an all stainless steel version of the new GMT Master II. I haven't seen one in person yet, but judging from all the pictures I've seen, it's one of the most beautiful Rolexes ever produced.
I have a particular affinity for the GMT Master II because I think it's one of Rolexes most practical watches. For a detailed breakdown, read my review, but just to summarize, it basically does four things, and it does them perfectly:
- Tells the time in your time zone.
- Tells the date in your time zone.
- Tells the time in a second time zone.
- Allows you switch between time zones and move the date forward or backward extremely easily.
If you're looking for an elegant but durable travel watch, you won't do any better than the Rolex GMT Master II.
So how did Rolex manage to improve such a well designed watch? As I said, I haven't been able to get my hands on one yet, but from what I can gather, these are the major changes:
Timex has just introduced
the new T Series,
a collection of simply-styled analog quartz watches incorporating
Indiglo, long battery life (7 years), stainless steel cases, and good
water resistance (100 meters, or 330 feet).
Several have perpetual calendars, which automatically correct for shorter months,
and others have chronographs (stopwatches) for event timing. All have clear, readable faces, and are affordably priced at $80
to $120 retail.
The T Series represents classic Timex: good values, reasonable styling, and a few nice features.
By Paul Hubbard
Christian says: The other day, my sister-in-law was asking me for advice on a simple, affordable (she's in college), nice looking metal watch for her boyfriend who doesn't wear a watch at all. The T Series seems to fit the bill perfectly.
Historic American watchmaker Timex has been doing some interesting
things lately. In addition to their broad line of quartz watches,
they've reintroduced a line of inexpensive mechanical watches based
on Chinese movements, and more recently added upscale lines under the
TX brand. These are
analog quartz watches, with retrograde displays (where the hands move
back and forth in an arc) and lots of hands. Timex designed these in
Germany over a five-year period, with six-sigma manufacturing. The
watches have a lot of the details that you get with nicer watches,
such as sapphire crystals, four motors, legible faces, deployant
buckles, enameled crowns, and nicely finished cases.
There are three series of TX watches right now: the 300 perpetual
calendar (which doesn't require adjustments on months with less than
31 days), the 500-series with a second time zone display, and 700-series
with a stopwatch, second time zone, and an electronic compass. The picture
is from the 730 model.
It's difficult to find prices for TX watches online, but they appear to be in
the $500 range, which is quite good for what they offer. It's good to
see the classic American brand stage a comeback, and I hope
these new models succeed.
By Paul Hubbard